How do you know how many watts...
#1
#4
#6
Testing true RMS power output takes equipment the average shop will not have.
However, if they have an oscilloscope, clamp meter, and DMM they can give you a good ballpark figure. In fact, if you can get a hold of an oscilloscope, clamp meter, and DMM it is pretty easily.
However, if they have an oscilloscope, clamp meter, and DMM they can give you a good ballpark figure. In fact, if you can get a hold of an oscilloscope, clamp meter, and DMM it is pretty easily.
#7
I once heard that you can get a ballpark figure by taking the fuse rating, multiplying it by 14.4 (voltage, engine running), then mulitplying it by the amplifier's efficiency.
Efficiency is tricky, and it varies by class: A/B or D. I think a good ballpark figure is that class D amps are maybe 70-80% efficient at best, and A/B amps are maybe 60% efficient. Multi-channel amps are usually class A/B and Monoblocks are usually class D.
Example:
My Alpine MRD-605 monoblock is fused for 60A. It's a monoblock and is infact class D. So...
(60x14.4)x0.75 = 648w
This is actually pretty close to the birthsheet which said 631w @ 14.4v
My Audiobahn A6004v 4 channel amp is rated at 600w total rms power. It's fused for 60A, but is a class A/B amplifier. So...
(60x14.4)x0.60 = 518w
This is slightly under rated RMS power, which doesn't surprise me because it didn't come with a birthsheet or a CEA 2006 certification. It's Audiobahn...
This is just a guideline. so take it for with a grain of salt.
Efficiency is tricky, and it varies by class: A/B or D. I think a good ballpark figure is that class D amps are maybe 70-80% efficient at best, and A/B amps are maybe 60% efficient. Multi-channel amps are usually class A/B and Monoblocks are usually class D.
Example:
My Alpine MRD-605 monoblock is fused for 60A. It's a monoblock and is infact class D. So...
(60x14.4)x0.75 = 648w
This is actually pretty close to the birthsheet which said 631w @ 14.4v
My Audiobahn A6004v 4 channel amp is rated at 600w total rms power. It's fused for 60A, but is a class A/B amplifier. So...
(60x14.4)x0.60 = 518w
This is slightly under rated RMS power, which doesn't surprise me because it didn't come with a birthsheet or a CEA 2006 certification. It's Audiobahn...
This is just a guideline. so take it for with a grain of salt.
#8
I once heard that you can get a ballpark figure by taking the fuse rating, multiplying it by 14.4 (voltage, engine running), then mulitplying it by the amplifier's efficiency.
Efficiency is tricky, and it varies by class: A/B or D. I think a good ballpark figure is that class D amps are maybe 70-80% efficient at best, and A/B amps are maybe 60% efficient. Multi-channel amps are usually class A/B and Monoblocks are usually class D.
Example:
My Alpine MRD-605 monoblock is fused for 60A. It's a monoblock and is infact class D. So...
(60x14.4)x0.75 = 648w
This is actually pretty close to the birthsheet which said 631w @ 14.4v
My Audiobahn A6004v 4 channel amp is rated at 600w total rms power. It's fused for 60A, but is a class A/B amplifier. So...
(60x14.4)x0.60 = 518w
This is slightly under rated RMS power, which doesn't surprise me because it didn't come with a birthsheet or a CEA 2006 certification. It's Audiobahn...
This is just a guideline. so take it for with a grain of salt.
Efficiency is tricky, and it varies by class: A/B or D. I think a good ballpark figure is that class D amps are maybe 70-80% efficient at best, and A/B amps are maybe 60% efficient. Multi-channel amps are usually class A/B and Monoblocks are usually class D.
Example:
My Alpine MRD-605 monoblock is fused for 60A. It's a monoblock and is infact class D. So...
(60x14.4)x0.75 = 648w
This is actually pretty close to the birthsheet which said 631w @ 14.4v
My Audiobahn A6004v 4 channel amp is rated at 600w total rms power. It's fused for 60A, but is a class A/B amplifier. So...
(60x14.4)x0.60 = 518w
This is slightly under rated RMS power, which doesn't surprise me because it didn't come with a birthsheet or a CEA 2006 certification. It's Audiobahn...
This is just a guideline. so take it for with a grain of salt.
#9
Ha, a quick summary of what Chris said: Multiply the number listed on the fuse by 14.4 and you will have a general rating for your wattage.
#10
It'll put you in the general area...assuming your efficiency guess is semi accurate. For instance, JL's old class D amps were like 50% efficient. On the other hand, there are A/B's that are in the 70% area.
Also, this way assumes the amp is capable of drawing as much current as the rated fuse capacity. However, this is hardly ever true. With cheaper amps, the fuses are usually a good bit above what the amp is capable of pulling with out some sort of failure. On the other hand, many high current amps use slow blow fuses (well some use no fuses at all, lol) so the amps is capable of drawing well over the fuse's rated value for short periods of time.
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03-22-2007 08:26 PM