I just bought a single 10 JL W6v2 and my P3001 amp is not cutting it for this sub. If I were to buy a P6001 which puts out 600 watts rms compared to my 300 watts right now, would I hear a big difference?

Also, would the 600 watts be too much for just this one sub?

I'm also worried about the installation of this amp. I don't want to pay for installation and was wondering if the new amp would hook up exactly the same as my old one being that they are the same brand and style amp. If I could just unplug my old amp from the wiring and plug the new one in the same that would be great and save me money.

 

whats the RMS on the subs..whatever that is take bout half..

example-RMS 600 ideal 300 watts

 

what are you talking about? if you do that method, most subs will sound like hell.



edit: just looked up some stats on your sub.. it looks like it recommends 500watts rms.. so i wouldnt go over that.

 

the wiring is really easy...disconnect the wires, pull out old amp, put new one in and connect wires, DONE

 

Cool thanks. I think the sub will be fine with 600 watts as long as I don't have the gain up too high.

 

thats how i was always told how to get the avg. wattage when it comes to subs..lol..intresting..

we learn something everyday now dont we

 

Per JL's site. 10W6v2 rms is 400 watts, max is 700-800. I woudn't go over that. It void the warranty. You should be ok with the 600 watts.

JL's power chart:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...php?page_id=35

JL Audio 10W6v2:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6

 

ive givin my r's 800 watts rms each.. thats 300 more than they are rated for

 

Ya, I definitely need a more powerful amp. My single 10 sounds only a little better than my two $79 8's I had before with the same amp. It denfinitely has the SQ I was looking for, but is lacking on output which I blame the amp for.

 

600, no prob...

 

Is that with the your new W6 off of that 600 watt amp? If so, what kind of box is it in?

 

Jl subs have been known to be underrated so i think 600 watts rms would be fine.

 

Ok.... no, sorry to say, you are wrong!

RMS is the Constant feed, then you have TOTAL WATTS. TOTAL watts are for BRIEF instances! NEVER EXCEED TOTAL WATTS! RMS on the amp should match up with + or - 10% of the RMS rating of the sub. That JL would take that 600 and keep tickin... You are good to go!

P.S. I spent two years working in an Audio Shop In Dallas, TX so, I kinda know what I am talking about here.

 

ooooOOOOOoooooo

 

what kind of box do you have it in? every speaker is different, ive seen many many situations where the box was the problem. a stereo tech should be able to tell you wether that speaker was meant for a fully enclosed box, ported or vented. I had a pair of type r's in a sealed box....spent the extra money on a subzero cross vented box and i swear they hit 20 times harder, huge difference.