Vacuum Resevior Lines
#1
Vacuum Resevior Lines
Can somebody show me where the two vacuum lines go that come off of my 2010 Ranger 4.0L Vacuum Resevior Ball? I know one goes thru the firewall and into the heater/cooler assembly and it looks good. I am assuming the other one comes from a vacum source. Mine was brittle and broke and was hanging there and I can seem to find where it attaches.
#2
It is usually "T"ed with another vacuum line.
You should have a vacuum diagram in the engine bay, look for VAC RES and see if you can tell if it runs directly to the intake or shares vacuum with another device.
Worst case is that you add your own "T" to existing vacuum line, but better to find where it went originally so you don't have a vacuum leak from an open port
You can use rubber vacuum lines in place of the hard plastic lines, the hard plastic lines are cheaper, which is why auto makers switched to them
You should have a vacuum diagram in the engine bay, look for VAC RES and see if you can tell if it runs directly to the intake or shares vacuum with another device.
Worst case is that you add your own "T" to existing vacuum line, but better to find where it went originally so you don't have a vacuum leak from an open port
You can use rubber vacuum lines in place of the hard plastic lines, the hard plastic lines are cheaper, which is why auto makers switched to them
#3
It is usually "T"ed with another vacuum line.
You should have a vacuum diagram in the engine bay, look for VAC RES and see if you can tell if it runs directly to the intake or shares vacuum with another device.
Worst case is that you add your own "T" to existing vacuum line, but better to find where it went originally so you don't have a vacuum leak from an open port
You can use rubber vacuum lines in place of the hard plastic lines, the hard plastic lines are cheaper, which is why auto makers switched to them
You should have a vacuum diagram in the engine bay, look for VAC RES and see if you can tell if it runs directly to the intake or shares vacuum with another device.
Worst case is that you add your own "T" to existing vacuum line, but better to find where it went originally so you don't have a vacuum leak from an open port
You can use rubber vacuum lines in place of the hard plastic lines, the hard plastic lines are cheaper, which is why auto makers switched to them
#4
#5
thanks for the info. I have the Black and Grey hooked up correctly. I have two coming out of top (intake). One for over to EGR. The other came out and Broke. I think it goes all the way to Res. Vac. There is a tube coming off the back off the Heat Control Valve. Does vacuu line t off and connect to that?
#6
No, the heat control valve would only have vacuum when Max AC was selected in the cab
I would use the broken one off the intake.
After hook up go out for drive, select Panel Vent and put fan to high, vent selection should work now.
Accelerate, put load on engine, if air starts to come out of Defrost vents then your Check Valve is also MIA.
Vacuum reservoir is there so the Vacuum motors that run the dash vent doors always have vacuum to hold them in position selected.
When you accelerate vacuum in engine drops to 0
Defrost vent is 0 vacuum
So if vacuum reservoir isn't holding vacuum then vent will change to Defrost as vacuum in engine drops.
Check valve for reservoir keeps highest vacuum in reservoir
Vacuum is NOT used up, it can leak out, but isn't used up
I would use the broken one off the intake.
After hook up go out for drive, select Panel Vent and put fan to high, vent selection should work now.
Accelerate, put load on engine, if air starts to come out of Defrost vents then your Check Valve is also MIA.
Vacuum reservoir is there so the Vacuum motors that run the dash vent doors always have vacuum to hold them in position selected.
When you accelerate vacuum in engine drops to 0
Defrost vent is 0 vacuum
So if vacuum reservoir isn't holding vacuum then vent will change to Defrost as vacuum in engine drops.
Check valve for reservoir keeps highest vacuum in reservoir
Vacuum is NOT used up, it can leak out, but isn't used up
#7
No, the heat control valve would only have vacuum when Max AC was selected in the cab
I would use the broken one off the intake.
After hook up go out for drive, select Panel Vent and put fan to high, vent selection should work now.
Accelerate, put load on engine, if air starts to come out of Defrost vents then your Check Valve is also MIA.
Vacuum reservoir is there so the Vacuum motors that run the dash vent doors always have vacuum to hold them in position selected.
When you accelerate vacuum in engine drops to 0
Defrost vent is 0 vacuum
So if vacuum reservoir isn't holding vacuum then vent will change to Defrost as vacuum in engine drops.
Check valve for reservoir keeps highest vacuum in reservoir
Vacuum is NOT used up, it can leak out, but isn't used up
I would use the broken one off the intake.
After hook up go out for drive, select Panel Vent and put fan to high, vent selection should work now.
Accelerate, put load on engine, if air starts to come out of Defrost vents then your Check Valve is also MIA.
Vacuum reservoir is there so the Vacuum motors that run the dash vent doors always have vacuum to hold them in position selected.
When you accelerate vacuum in engine drops to 0
Defrost vent is 0 vacuum
So if vacuum reservoir isn't holding vacuum then vent will change to Defrost as vacuum in engine drops.
Check valve for reservoir keeps highest vacuum in reservoir
Vacuum is NOT used up, it can leak out, but isn't used up
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