4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Truck starts fine.... once. Then No Crank no start.

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Old 04-20-2022
99TRanger4x4's Avatar
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From: Victorville
Truck starts fine.... once. Then No Crank no start.

Truck starts up normally then say you're going for a short trip shut It Off get back in it and no crank no start. Or even if I just fire it up Shut It Off an attempt to restart it no crank no start. I have already cleaned all the electrical connections including the starter to the transmission housing starter itself all positives and grounds. I am able to start the truck if I run my jumper between the positive on the battery and the switch wire on the starter but it just doesn't make sense why I'm able to start at the first time and not right after. But like I got home last night let it sit all night and it fired right up in the morning but then I shut it off and try to restart it and no crank no start I'm stumped someone help please lol
 
  #2  
Old 04-21-2022
RonD's Avatar
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From: Vancouver, BC
Assuming 1999 Ranger with V6 engine

So you have PATS(passive anti-theft system), it was standard equipment on 1999 V6 Rangers and up thru 2011
There is a THEFT Light on the dash, it should flash every 5-10seconds with key off to warn Thieves off

When you turn the key ON the THEFT light should come on and then go OFF if the key in the ignition "passed the PATS test"
Does the THEFT light work?

THEFT light will flash rapidly after you turn on the key if PATS has disabled startup, no crank
But, you also could not start the engine by jumping starter relay

So does the THEFT Light work, not burnt out, because it will flash a code number telling you why PATS prevented start up


In the engine bay fuse box is the Starter Relay, #6
This is the relay the key activates when its turned to START, when this relay closes it sends 12v to the starter motors internal relay to activate it
Next to relay #6 is relay #9, 9 is for the Blower motor(cab fan)
These are the same relay types so can be swapped, just to test if the relay is the issue

Battery Voltage
When you start the engine the battery is drained, if you shut off the engine right away then alternator could not recharge it
So when you restart, the battery voltage would be lower, that could cause PATS to reset, and cause a no crank/no start

After sitting over night or 4+ hours, a battery should be 12.3v to 12.8v, you will get a false high voltage after charging(alternator)
Under 12.3v is a failing battery, 5+ years old or just failing
12.8v is a newer battery, its at 100% capacity
12.5v is a 3 year old battery, its at 75% capacity
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales, its at 50% capacity

 
  #3  
Old 04-24-2022
Pussypatrol1996's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 23
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From: Portland OR
I just got finished dealing with a 4.0 swap on my 2000 and was running into similar problems.
I agree with ron here, check fuses, then test your cold cranking amps , if you are not getting proper cold cranking amps, that battery mostlikeley needs changed. That helped me kind of till the problem came back weeks later.

The fact that you can start it on occasion has me leaning toward a battery issue, and that's easy to get after. But I also suspect you may have a grounding issue as I did.

when turning key to accessory make sure you hear your fuel pump primes (you can lean your head just under your driver's side floorboard to listen for it) although I doubt it's a fuel issue always something to check.

When you turn the key you are probably hearing a single "click".
If you are hearing multiple clicks "tick tick tick tick tick" while still holding the key in the start position you definitely have a bad battery.

For me the single "click" was a tall tell sign somehow the starter was not getting proper voltage even After replacing the battery. this leads me to be believe your culprit is going to be a ground issue as I had. Also because you can bypass using jumper cables.

Remove all your grounds and wire brush them clean as well as your battery terminals, there should be 4 or so grounds, one on the driver's side to the bottom of your block coming off your wiring harness, 2 to the fire wall , 1 under the truck on the frame somewhere, 1 from your battery negative, and one from the starter. Make sure they are clean and free all dirt grease and debrees removed. Also double and triple check all the nuts are tightened all the way as this could cause it too.

I would also suggest adding a ground wire directly from your starter to either the frame or the main ground on the bottom of your block where the wiring harness grounds off too. This solved my problem. Hopefully it will help you.




 
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