A couple months ago I started hearing a rattling/Grinding noise when starting my 2002 Ranger. It would only happen on cold starts and lasted only a couple seconds then went away. I thought it was the Timing Tensioner bolts so I replead those this weekend but the truck is still making the noise.
I did use OEM Ford replacement parts but I noticed that the old ones were still pretty firm, but I primed the new ones and put them in anyway.

Are the Timing Chain Guides already shot or is it something else? Truck has 115k miles. Any help is appreciated.

 

Welcome to the forum,

Yes, once you HEAR "the rattle" a guide has broken, damage is done

There is no warning signs of a failing tensioner, when the spring inside has less tension it allows the chain to put more stress on a guide on startup, before there is oil pressure, over time the guide mount breaks, and you get "the rattle" on startup, and then at mid-RPMs after awhile

It took Ford 4 years or so to figure out what was happening, 1997 to 2001/2, they did redesign the tensioners, which meant less spring failure but still not 100%, because this engine has TWO long timing chains and that in itself means more timing chain issues, twice as many as single long timing chain engine

Its a good engine overall just has this one weak point
It is recommended to change these two long chain tensioners every 100k miles, use Motorcraft parts for this

 

Damn, not what I wanted to hear lol.

So the next step would be to take it to the shop and have the timing chain and guides replaced? Sounds expensive.

 

Yes, they have to pull out the engine to replace rear guides which are usually the ones that break

 

I just finished replacing front and rear chains, tensioners complete, all ford nothing old used. The front tensioner keeps making noise on cold start up. They were primed before install and motor primed thereafter. I removed the restrictor and OP sensor, then blew air thru. Still makes typical tensioner noise even after 2nd ford tensioner. suggestions? Oil was always changed 5k or less, zero sludge, very clean inside.

 

Remove LeftValveCover again & inspect. What weight oil?

 

5w30 ford synthetic blend,
No damage obvious under vc, did that after 1st tensioner, will do tommorrow, rigged oil pressure, truck doesn't have gauge, 55psi at 1100rpm, 65 at 2500rpm, chains done before failure so no debris, mileage 280k, runs great,4x4 at 20mpg,just that awful startup noise that seems to extend to almost 3 or 4 minutes before fully gone, harsh part about 30seconds, but temperature just started dipping below 30

 

Yep, all these trucks have got is that danged OilPressureSwitch & a fake Off~On OilPressureNeedle.
Actual pressure with a real gauge will confirm OilPump Good\Bad.

 

I totally beside myself, everything went well, used all ford stuff, no leaks, disconnected fuel n spark for startup and turned 3 times and oil light went out, no tensioner noise on startup, just after over night cold start, OP is non elect mechanical, I thought I had an oil filter failure on first cold start, but thinking it was same issue as this, very much cold related. Does anyone know the configuration of the gallery below the restrictor and if maybe that is a trap for air and needs priming, I dropped a welding rod in there checking for obstruction, it hit a perpendicular dead end pretty much right away

 

26 degree morning 4am, only about 6 hours or so sit.protected in garage so not perfect test. Started with OP rising to 55 with no hesitation, absolutely zero noise, not even half a clack. So knowing this is a hydraulic item having air as an enemy I have to wonder why there's no device to bleed of air and had I known I would go through this,would have plumbed one from the restrictor tube and terminated it adjacent to the fuel rail Schrader, I'm going to roll it out after work and wait till tomorrow morning to try it again, it's not for sure resolved but encouraging.

 

Sounds better.
Especially on cold mornings, I PreCrank 5~10sec with GasPedal to floor, to circulate oil & pump up Tensioners, before starting engine.
When I've have Tensioners out, spray a little CarbCleaner in oil Passages\Restrictor to help break up crud, then oil+filter change afterwards.

 

The oil system on vehicles is "open ended", and pressure is usually above 20psi so air can't really get "trapped" inside the oil system, it would just get pushed out at an "open end"

 

The passage for the restrictor, runs length of head I assume or 90 down front of motor? Welding rod hit dead end, curious ? Hot idle with afternoon quiet start had op 35psi, startup was about 60. Had sat for 11hours today. I haven't seen it written, looks like it should, does restrictor retain oil for startup?

 

If the louder front tensioner noise returns after tonight's colder temperature and after pulling valve cover see no damage to cassette, suggested next step? I was going to pull it tonight but not in schedule maybe tomorrow.

 

Pic below of the FlowRestrictor+Plug as Removed+Cleaned+ReInstalled in the left Tensioners OilFeed PassageWay on my 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC.
Just a simple plastic stick; it may act as 1WayValve after engine is shut off, holding some Oil+Pressure in that PassageWay; not sure?
Believe Tensioner itself also has an internal 1WayValve to hold some Oil+Pressure after shut off, ready for next start.
I would do a GasPedalToFloor 5~10sec PreCrank before your next ColdStart; let us know how that goes.