Random no spark/weak spark
#1
Random no spark/weak spark
Background, it dropped a valve. Pulled motor, new head and timing chains. Used otc tools to set timing. Checked and double checked I had it right. New plugs and wires. Removed injector relay and ignition fuse to crank to build oil pressure. Re installed those, cranked, missed really bad and shut off. Tried a few more times, same result. Verified fuel, stated on spark and with a tester want getting spark consistently, and sometimes not at all. Replaced crank sensor. No change, replaced plugs and wires again. No change. Replaced coil. No change. Where next. Only code it's throwing is the p0320.
2009 ranger 4.0
2009 ranger 4.0
Last edited by Wncmountain; 01-26-2020 at 01:17 PM.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forum
Spark testers don't work well on Waste spark systems
Double check firing order on Coil Pack
There are only 3 coils inside the coil pack, NOT 6
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
These are the Matched Pairs for each coil in the coil pack
3/4, 2/6, 1/5 are always on the same coil, they spark at the same time
2/6 are always on the center coil in the pack
1/5 and 3/4 are at the ends, but which end depends on the 4 wire plug in
But there are ONLY 2 ways it can be wired
3 4
2 6
1 5
or
1 5
2 6
3 4
The order of the 2 spark plug wires doesn't matter as long as they are on the same coil
4 3
2 6
5 1
Would work
Spark testers don't work well on Waste spark systems
Double check firing order on Coil Pack
There are only 3 coils inside the coil pack, NOT 6
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
These are the Matched Pairs for each coil in the coil pack
3/4, 2/6, 1/5 are always on the same coil, they spark at the same time
2/6 are always on the center coil in the pack
1/5 and 3/4 are at the ends, but which end depends on the 4 wire plug in
But there are ONLY 2 ways it can be wired
3 4
2 6
1 5
or
1 5
2 6
3 4
The order of the 2 spark plug wires doesn't matter as long as they are on the same coil
4 3
2 6
5 1
Would work
#3
I've checked double triple quadruple checked. Just not getting spark. When I pulled the plugs, they had fuel on them.
Welcome to the forum
Spark testers don't work well on Waste spark systems
Double check firing order on Coil Pack
There are only 3 coils inside the coil pack, NOT 6
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
These are the Matched Pairs for each coil in the coil pack
3/4, 2/6, 1/5 are always on the same coil, they spark at the same time
2/6 are always on the center coil in the pack
1/5 and 3/4 are at the ends, but which end depends on the 4 wire plug in
But there are ONLY 2 ways it can be wired
3 4
2 6
1 5
or
1 5
2 6
3 4
The order of the 2 spark plug wires doesn't matter as long as they are on the same coil
4 3
2 6
5 1
Would work
Spark testers don't work well on Waste spark systems
Double check firing order on Coil Pack
There are only 3 coils inside the coil pack, NOT 6
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
These are the Matched Pairs for each coil in the coil pack
3/4, 2/6, 1/5 are always on the same coil, they spark at the same time
2/6 are always on the center coil in the pack
1/5 and 3/4 are at the ends, but which end depends on the 4 wire plug in
But there are ONLY 2 ways it can be wired
3 4
2 6
1 5
or
1 5
2 6
3 4
The order of the 2 spark plug wires doesn't matter as long as they are on the same coil
4 3
2 6
5 1
Would work
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Test battery with volt meter, key off, should see 12.3-12.8 volts
Pull off the 4 pin connector on coil pack and use volt meter from Purple wire to engine ground, key on, should be EXACTLY the same as battery voltage, 12.3-12.8v
If lower check Fuse #44 15amp in engine fuse box
Then volt meter or test light from same Purple wire to each of the other colored wires, one at a time. on that connector, meter or light should pulse when cranking engine
The other wires are the Grounds, one for each coil, computer grounds then cuts the ground to spark that coil
And thats all there really is to the spark system
Crank senor sets the timing pulse
Computer grounds and ungrounds each coil in the pack to spark
So crank sensor, computer, coil pack, not a complicated system
Pull off the 4 pin connector on coil pack and use volt meter from Purple wire to engine ground, key on, should be EXACTLY the same as battery voltage, 12.3-12.8v
If lower check Fuse #44 15amp in engine fuse box
Then volt meter or test light from same Purple wire to each of the other colored wires, one at a time. on that connector, meter or light should pulse when cranking engine
The other wires are the Grounds, one for each coil, computer grounds then cuts the ground to spark that coil
And thats all there really is to the spark system
Crank senor sets the timing pulse
Computer grounds and ungrounds each coil in the pack to spark
So crank sensor, computer, coil pack, not a complicated system
#5
I checked the voltage and its dead on. I even omed out the wires to the firewall bulkhead to be sure everything was connected on the crank, cam and coil. I've replaced the cam and crank sensors, still nothing. Not even getting a code any more.
Test battery with volt meter, key off, should see 12.3-12.8 volts
Pull off the 4 pin connector on coil pack and use volt meter from Purple wire to engine ground, key on, should be EXACTLY the same as battery voltage, 12.3-12.8v
If lower check Fuse #44 15amp in engine fuse box
Then volt meter or test light from same Purple wire to each of the other colored wires, one at a time. on that connector, meter or light should pulse when cranking engine
The other wires are the Grounds, one for each coil, computer grounds then cuts the ground to spark that coil
And thats all there really is to the spark system
Crank senor sets the timing pulse
Computer grounds and ungrounds each coil in the pack to spark
So crank sensor, computer, coil pack, not a complicated system
Pull off the 4 pin connector on coil pack and use volt meter from Purple wire to engine ground, key on, should be EXACTLY the same as battery voltage, 12.3-12.8v
If lower check Fuse #44 15amp in engine fuse box
Then volt meter or test light from same Purple wire to each of the other colored wires, one at a time. on that connector, meter or light should pulse when cranking engine
The other wires are the Grounds, one for each coil, computer grounds then cuts the ground to spark that coil
And thats all there really is to the spark system
Crank senor sets the timing pulse
Computer grounds and ungrounds each coil in the pack to spark
So crank sensor, computer, coil pack, not a complicated system
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#7
I have been digging and have found a few issues. There seems to be a connection issue at the firewall bulkhead connector for the cam sensor. I get 5 volts for the sensor at the firewall connector pin but nothing when plugged in. I only get 1.5 volts for the crank sensor the firewall connector and at the sensor. Is this a problem? My understanding is it needs to be 5 volts?
I think it is just not throwing a code since it is not starting, just spinning over with the occasional firing cylinder.
I think it is just not throwing a code since it is not starting, just spinning over with the occasional firing cylinder.
#8
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
This is a 2009 Ranger 4.0l SOHC
It should have a Green/white stripe wire, this actually a ground but reads as 5volts, its a pull up circuit
Same green/white wire is on TPS, MAF, DPFE, O2's, and ECT sensors, its a shared wire from pin 58 on computer
Brown/blue wire is the signal wire from CPS to pin 45 on computer
It should have a Green/white stripe wire, this actually a ground but reads as 5volts, its a pull up circuit
Same green/white wire is on TPS, MAF, DPFE, O2's, and ECT sensors, its a shared wire from pin 58 on computer
Brown/blue wire is the signal wire from CPS to pin 45 on computer
#9
Is there a pin out schematic that can help me through this?
This is a 2009 Ranger 4.0l SOHC
It should have a Green/white stripe wire, this actually a ground but reads as 5volts, its a pull up circuit
Same green/white wire is on TPS, MAF, DPFE, O2's, and ECT sensors, its a shared wire from pin 58 on computer
Brown/blue wire is the signal wire from CPS to pin 45 on computer
It should have a Green/white stripe wire, this actually a ground but reads as 5volts, its a pull up circuit
Same green/white wire is on TPS, MAF, DPFE, O2's, and ECT sensors, its a shared wire from pin 58 on computer
Brown/blue wire is the signal wire from CPS to pin 45 on computer
#10
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#11
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#12
This is a 2009 Ranger 4.0l SOHC
It should have a Green/white stripe wire, this actually a ground but reads as 5volts, its a pull up circuit
Same green/white wire is on TPS, MAF, DPFE, O2's, and ECT sensors, its a shared wire from pin 58 on computer
Brown/blue wire is the signal wire from CPS to pin 45 on computer
It should have a Green/white stripe wire, this actually a ground but reads as 5volts, its a pull up circuit
Same green/white wire is on TPS, MAF, DPFE, O2's, and ECT sensors, its a shared wire from pin 58 on computer
Brown/blue wire is the signal wire from CPS to pin 45 on computer
Never mind I see they are to different locations.
Last edited by Wncmountain; 02-03-2020 at 06:15 AM.
#13
OK so I'm getting 5 volts at the computer at the pin 58. But when the harness is plugged in it goes away, nothing at the sensor. All of the other sensors are plugged in. Is this normal or does this indicate a problem? Either wiring or computer. Or possibly a problem with one of the other sensors?
Is the 1.5 volts for the crank sensor correct? Or should it be 5 volts?
Is the 1.5 volts for the crank sensor correct? Or should it be 5 volts?
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