4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Out of ideas

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2024
RobRich1976's Avatar
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From: Kirbyville Texas
Out of ideas

My 2002 Ford ranger 4.0L has a crank no start. I got 50 psi at fuel rail. I got spark from plugs. Changed crank sensor. Cam sensor is good. It will start when I spray starter fluid. But will not start on its own. Does anyone know any idea what's goin on or what's the next step I should take. Thanks
 
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Old 07-28-2024
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Is it throwing out any codes?
 
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Old 07-28-2024
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Nope. No codes
 
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Old 07-29-2024
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Is every fuel injector nozzle clogged?
Did you see if the 12 volt "daisy chain" is energized?
Each injector is powered by a common hot. They're grounded when the time comes to spritz.
 
  #5  
Old 07-29-2024
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Well when I shoot it with starting fluid it fires up and runs like it should until the starting fluid runs out. So I assumed they were all firing. I did check the hot wire on the injectors and they were good.
 
  #6  
Old 07-29-2024
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From: PSL FL
Originally Posted by RobRich1976
Well when I shoot it with starting fluid it fires up and runs like it should until the starting fluid runs out..
Your not getting fuel....You have a fuel issue.
 
  #7  
Old 07-31-2024
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Well here is an up date . I changed the coolant temperature sensor cause I was told that can make a crank no start but......that didn't fix my.problem either. Can anyone plz help me??
 
  #8  
Old 07-31-2024
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From: Hackensack, Nj
That vehicle has PATS.
Are you using a correct (chipped for your vehicle) key?
Make sure the "anti-theft light" illuminates when you turn the system ON.
You may have a light, but the bulb may be blown.

Even with gasoline sprayed into the cylinders, you need compression to fire an engine.
Check each cylinder's compression.
Remove all sparky-poos and shove a compression tester into each cylinder and crank the engine.
Get a helper if your particular gauge won't stay in the spark plug hole.
Top compression is 150-160 psi. Each cylinder might need 4-6 pulses to reach maximum.
Pulse each cylinder the same number of times. Wright down your findings.
Cylinder layout below.
3 6
2 5 (Driver's side)
1 4
Front of engine
 
  #9  
Old 07-31-2024
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I am using the same key that I've always used. But I did notice that sometimes when I go to try to start it. The theft light would be blinking rapidly. But I can turn ignition back and forth a few times and then the light would come on and go off Like it is supposed to.
 
  #10  
Old 07-31-2024
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Maybe your antenna ring is failing?

Also, is there a lot of bling (junk toys) on your key ring? That is a known source of interference.
 
  #11  
Old 07-31-2024
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Originally Posted by Georgeandkira
Maybe your antenna ring is failing?

Also, is there a lot of bling (junk toys) on your key ring? That is a known source of interference.
Or around the key slot on the column?
 
  #12  
Old 07-31-2024
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No sir I just use the key by it's self.
 
  #13  
Old 07-31-2024
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A known good (used by you) key, good. Check the antenna ring now.
 
  #14  
Old 07-31-2024
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Is there a specific way to test the ring. All I know is that it's supposed to read the chip in the key. So how can I test to see if it's actually reading it??
 
  #15  
Old 07-31-2024
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From: Hackensack, Nj
I meant to mention...I saw a video. Some specific ohm measurement? Check for frayed / dry wires?
 
  #16  
Old 08-25-2024
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I know this is 3 weeks old, but did you check to see if the fuel pump safety swith needs reset? Passenger side front, just above carpet line. Push the button on top. I hit mine vacuuming one day and it wouldn't start. Had it towed home and finally found the switch.
 
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