The official 100,000 Maintenance
#1
The official 100,000 Maintenance - Assistance Please
I am rapidly approaching the century mark and want to take care of most of this maintenance myself. I will start off saying that I am a novice when it comes to engines. My extended warranty is about to run out and I will be on my own in "no more warrany" land.
Ford reccomends the following things at 99,000 miles:
Change engine oil and replace oil filter (Up to 5 qts of motor oil)
Perform multi-point inspection
Rotate tires for optimal tire life
Inspect accessory drive belt(s)
Replace PCV valve
Change premium gold engine coolant
Replace spark plugs
Now I plan to go today to get plugs, wires and filters (never changed my own oil before). I can rotate tires but what else do I inspect while I am under there?
My goal is to check everything out before taking it to Ford for my final once over. They charge outrageous amounts of money for their 30-60-90-120 mile maintnance programs so I am trying to minimize that as much as possible (I have paid for it before its expensive). Besides after a month or so, I will have to do this all by myself unless I want to pay Ford to fix all the small stuff.
Also, is the haynes chilton (sp?) availiable yet for '02 on up?
Thanks for your help, its appreciated.
Ford reccomends the following things at 99,000 miles:
Change engine oil and replace oil filter (Up to 5 qts of motor oil)
Perform multi-point inspection
Rotate tires for optimal tire life
Inspect accessory drive belt(s)
Replace PCV valve
Change premium gold engine coolant
Replace spark plugs
Now I plan to go today to get plugs, wires and filters (never changed my own oil before). I can rotate tires but what else do I inspect while I am under there?
My goal is to check everything out before taking it to Ford for my final once over. They charge outrageous amounts of money for their 30-60-90-120 mile maintnance programs so I am trying to minimize that as much as possible (I have paid for it before its expensive). Besides after a month or so, I will have to do this all by myself unless I want to pay Ford to fix all the small stuff.
Also, is the haynes chilton (sp?) availiable yet for '02 on up?
Thanks for your help, its appreciated.
#3
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Here ya go, from autozone.com
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...EREPAIR+MANUAL
All of the maintenance items that you listed can easy be performed in your driveway.
While you are under the truck i would inspect the following, starting from the front.
- Steering rack, tie-rod ends. (check for leaks or torn boots)
- Upper and lower balljoints (check for torn boots, to see if worn, raise vehicle off the ground and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle it back and forth, if there is play it is either the balljoints or hub bearings. To determine which it is, have someone look at the balljoints while you move the wheel and if they are not moving its time for some hub bearings.
- Generally look over your engine and tranny for any leaks coming (lines, pans etc)
- Check u-joints in driveshaft. Grab the driveshaft close to the u-joint and try and move it up and down or side to side. If it does move, you need to replace that u-joint.
- While you have the tires off i would inspect the brake pads/shoes for wear. Also in the rear check the wheel cylinders for leaks. SOME small amount of seepage from the seals is normal, a large amount where the backing plate and majority of the wheel cylinder has fluid over it, is not acceptable.
- Check fluid in rear axle, not sure of 7.5's but 8.8's have the fill plug on the drivers side front of the diff and you should be able to put your pinky in the hole and point it downward and get fluid on your finger. You probably should change it if you have not done so. Make sure if you have a limited slip you get additive for it.
- Check the shocks. While the truck is siting, bounce the front and rear end, if it does not stop bouncing after the first or second bounce after you stop moving it, the shocks are probably going to need replacing.
- Check the CV axles, make sure the boots are not ripped and it might not be an obvious rip but check the inside of the wheel and the wheel well for gease and that signifies a broken cv boot.
- Check the front diff fluid. It's fill plug is on the drivers side close to the frame rail.
- Also check the rubber brake lines for cracking, they shouldn't be, but it doesn't hurt to check them.
Thats all i can think of right now, if i missed something, someone will fill ya in.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...EREPAIR+MANUAL
All of the maintenance items that you listed can easy be performed in your driveway.
While you are under the truck i would inspect the following, starting from the front.
- Steering rack, tie-rod ends. (check for leaks or torn boots)
- Upper and lower balljoints (check for torn boots, to see if worn, raise vehicle off the ground and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle it back and forth, if there is play it is either the balljoints or hub bearings. To determine which it is, have someone look at the balljoints while you move the wheel and if they are not moving its time for some hub bearings.
- Generally look over your engine and tranny for any leaks coming (lines, pans etc)
- Check u-joints in driveshaft. Grab the driveshaft close to the u-joint and try and move it up and down or side to side. If it does move, you need to replace that u-joint.
- While you have the tires off i would inspect the brake pads/shoes for wear. Also in the rear check the wheel cylinders for leaks. SOME small amount of seepage from the seals is normal, a large amount where the backing plate and majority of the wheel cylinder has fluid over it, is not acceptable.
- Check fluid in rear axle, not sure of 7.5's but 8.8's have the fill plug on the drivers side front of the diff and you should be able to put your pinky in the hole and point it downward and get fluid on your finger. You probably should change it if you have not done so. Make sure if you have a limited slip you get additive for it.
- Check the shocks. While the truck is siting, bounce the front and rear end, if it does not stop bouncing after the first or second bounce after you stop moving it, the shocks are probably going to need replacing.
- Check the CV axles, make sure the boots are not ripped and it might not be an obvious rip but check the inside of the wheel and the wheel well for gease and that signifies a broken cv boot.
- Check the front diff fluid. It's fill plug is on the drivers side close to the frame rail.
- Also check the rubber brake lines for cracking, they shouldn't be, but it doesn't hurt to check them.
Thats all i can think of right now, if i missed something, someone will fill ya in.
#4
Ok, noob question...how do I drain the axles? Just unbolt them and let the fluid gush out? The bolt back up and fill through the plug correct?
I can build buildings & houses but when it comes to vehicles I am a complete noob.
I know a lot of things will be needing replaced in he next few months and I hope to get to most of them before winter rolls around. The last thing I need is a major repair when I still have 2 yrs to pay off and the damn things is out of its extended warranty.
Thanks for the help!
I can build buildings & houses but when it comes to vehicles I am a complete noob.
I know a lot of things will be needing replaced in he next few months and I hope to get to most of them before winter rolls around. The last thing I need is a major repair when I still have 2 yrs to pay off and the damn things is out of its extended warranty.
Thanks for the help!
#5
Originally Posted by vansnxtweek
you drive a lot dont you!
id also maybe change the fuel filter i guess
id also maybe change the fuel filter i guess
I thought about leasing car...for a moment... until it dawned on me that I would need three cars for 36k/36 months at a time to cover all my miles.
Anyone want to buy my truck?
#6
Originally Posted by 034x4
Make sure if you have a limited slip you get additive for it.
Ford specifies SAE 80W-90 plus friction modifier for the Traction-Lok L/S.
The Torsen L/S gets SAE 75W-140 synthetic axle lube only.
#7
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O good to know, had no idea the torsen didn't use additive.
There are one of 2 ways to change fluid. One is quicker and easier, but you can buy a "fluid evacuator" and suck the old fluid out of the fill plug hole. But alot of people don't like this because it obviously will not get out all of the fluid, and you cannot inspect the condition of the gear set.
So i would remove the differential cover and let the fluid drain out, inspect the gear set for abnormal wear and excessive metal in the fluid. You can also use a cleaner to clean out ALL of the old nasty fluid. and re-install the cover and fill the diff back up with oil.
There are one of 2 ways to change fluid. One is quicker and easier, but you can buy a "fluid evacuator" and suck the old fluid out of the fill plug hole. But alot of people don't like this because it obviously will not get out all of the fluid, and you cannot inspect the condition of the gear set.
So i would remove the differential cover and let the fluid drain out, inspect the gear set for abnormal wear and excessive metal in the fluid. You can also use a cleaner to clean out ALL of the old nasty fluid. and re-install the cover and fill the diff back up with oil.
#10
#11
#12
Originally Posted by cincy4point0
Yes Haynes finally has a manual out for 00+ Rangers, it should cover 1993-2005.
huh? how does 1993 relate anywhere near 00+??
Also as fot the front diff, youll have to get the evacuator that Jey was talking abut unless you want to spend a few hours droppin the diff just to see the ring gear conditions...
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