I am at a loss and have been reading the Forums for the last 4 hours and for the life of me I can't seem to get this figured out.
My stepson's 2006 4.0 Ranger died while idling in the driveway.
I've been back and forth to the parts store 6 times today and still no luck on getting this figured out.

Here is what has been done at this point:
1: 50/50 test completed => Truck starts with starting fluid in the intake.
2: Relay tested and is getting power
3: Inertia Switch tested, reset and bypassed still no luck
4: Fuel Filter Replaced
5: Fuel Pump Replaced, tested new pump and wiring after install
6: Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced
7: Camshaft Position Sensor Replaced
8: I have verified the PATS light on the dash is function and does not flash rapidly when cranking.

There are also no codes showing with scan tool at this time. Will be checking sanity test after posting this.

Any help or input on where to go next, or what I have missed please let me know.

 

Welcome to the forum

Engine starts with 50/50 test so crank and cam sensors are fine, and computer is booted up OK
So it is just down to fuel pressure and fuel injectors
Just as a quick test unplug the 3 wire connector on TPS(throttle sensor), a shorted TPS can disable fuel injectors but fuel pump would still run, so if fuel pump is not coming on then no need to do this test

I assume you do not hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds with Key on?
And it only runs for 2 seconds, but will do that EACH TIME key is turned from off to on, its a safety thing

Fuel pump relay base should have 1 slot that shows 12v with key off, that's from fuse 23 in engine fuse box, fuel pump power fuse, 20amps
Then another slot will show 12v with key on only, that's from PCM relay, for relay activation, but it has 12v all the time with key on, the relays ground wire is the control, that does the 2 second thing

The fuel pump only gets full time 12v after engine is started, above 400rpms(cranking is 200rpms)


You can jumper the fuel pump relay so inertia switch and fuel pump get 12v all the time for testing, key on or off won't matter
I think Ford used this type of fuel pump relay in 2006: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/...lay-wiring.jpg

30 and 87 are the relay contacts that pass 12v from fuse 23 to inertia switch and then to the fuel pump
Pull out the FP relay and put in an 18guage jumper wire connecting slots 30 and 87, and fuel pump wire will now have 12v full time

You can start the engine with jumper in place just as a test

 

Ron, Thank you for the information, As of right now I have tested everything up to the injectors. I have verified that I am getting fuel to the fuel rail via the schrader valve. The fuel pump is working, I have tested and bypassed the inertia switch, It appears to be something to do with the injectors, I've been looking through the forums on how to test them and what could cause them not to work. I am checking the TPS today and trying to find noid lights to test the injectors.

 

Simple test is to crank the engine over a few times(don't touch gas pedal), then pull out any easy to reach spark plug
Its tip should be WET with fuel, if not then that one cylinder's injector is not working, might apply to all injectors but for now just that one for sure
If its WET then light the tip with a match or lighter, it should burn fast and bright, if not then you do not have fuel/gasoline in the tank, might be water or ???

Noid lights are handy but if you have confirmed fuel, under pressure, at the injector's fuel rail and spark plug tips are NOT WET after cranking then there are no injector pulses OR no 12volts at the injectors