New Engine time
#1
New Engine time
Well, it appears my engine is on its way out. Smoke at start up(valve guid seals), smoke when driving(rings) and now using oil.
Oh and sometimes it also has that nice timing chain rattle.
I found a really good deal on a Ford reman for $2850 plus $450 core.
What would you guys recommend doing while the engine is out?
Truck is 04, 4.0 5 speed 168k
I bought the truck at 146k
Supposedly just had a radiator, hoses and clutch
I did plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter when I bought it,
Along with a ton of chassis work.
So, when the new engine is going it I plan on a new water pump and coolant flush.
But what else should I be considering?
Oh and sometimes it also has that nice timing chain rattle.
I found a really good deal on a Ford reman for $2850 plus $450 core.
What would you guys recommend doing while the engine is out?
Truck is 04, 4.0 5 speed 168k
I bought the truck at 146k
Supposedly just had a radiator, hoses and clutch
I did plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter when I bought it,
Along with a ton of chassis work.
So, when the new engine is going it I plan on a new water pump and coolant flush.
But what else should I be considering?
The following users liked this post:
NeesMemy (05-24-2020)
#2
You will be doing a long block swap so new intake, exhaust, valve cover and oil pan gaskets, check if it comes with new oil pump, it should
I would get new knock sensor, a pain to get to after intake is in, and the wires break
Thermostat housing can crack on these engines, so check it
New thermostat of course
Inspect coil pack for any cracks, not an issue but while its out.................have a look
You can do a flip test on radiator while its out
Put rad cap on
Put rad on its side so cooling tubes run up and down
Put your hand over the lower rad hose port and fill rad with garden hose using upper port
When its full remove hose
Remove hand and let rad drain, should drain very very fast
You can tilt it a bit to make sure all the water is out
Now the test
Flip rad upside down and see if any water comes out, it could ONLY come from blocked cooling tubes, that couldn't drain
Repeat with rad in reverse direction
Also good to back flush heater core, but best to do this outside
With both heater hoses off use garden hose to flush out core in BOTH directions
And anytime you change coolant you should reverse heater hoses at the firewall, this back flushes while driving, lol, can increase life of heater cores
What kills heater cores is blockages in the smaller cooling tubes
Coolant has anti-corrosive chemicals for the metal parts of an engine, but it ONLY WORKS when its in contact with the metal parts, I know DUH
Well when heater core has a blockage then NO COOLANT circulates thru that tube and it starts to corrode, and then leaks into the cab
I would get new knock sensor, a pain to get to after intake is in, and the wires break
Thermostat housing can crack on these engines, so check it
New thermostat of course
Inspect coil pack for any cracks, not an issue but while its out.................have a look
You can do a flip test on radiator while its out
Put rad cap on
Put rad on its side so cooling tubes run up and down
Put your hand over the lower rad hose port and fill rad with garden hose using upper port
When its full remove hose
Remove hand and let rad drain, should drain very very fast
You can tilt it a bit to make sure all the water is out
Now the test
Flip rad upside down and see if any water comes out, it could ONLY come from blocked cooling tubes, that couldn't drain
Repeat with rad in reverse direction
Also good to back flush heater core, but best to do this outside
With both heater hoses off use garden hose to flush out core in BOTH directions
And anytime you change coolant you should reverse heater hoses at the firewall, this back flushes while driving, lol, can increase life of heater cores
What kills heater cores is blockages in the smaller cooling tubes
Coolant has anti-corrosive chemicals for the metal parts of an engine, but it ONLY WORKS when its in contact with the metal parts, I know DUH
Well when heater core has a blockage then NO COOLANT circulates thru that tube and it starts to corrode, and then leaks into the cab
Last edited by RonD; 05-15-2020 at 01:06 PM.
The following users liked this post:
NeesMemy (05-24-2020)
#3
You will be doing a long block swap so new intake, exhaust, valve cover and oil pan gaskets, check if it comes with new oil pump, it should
I would get new knock sensor, a pain to get to after intake is in, and the wires break
Thermostat housing can crack on these engines, so check it
New thermostat of course
Inspect coil pack for any cracks, not an issue but while its out.................have a look
You can do a flip test on radiator while its out
Put rad cap on
Put rad on its side so cooling tubes run up and down
Put your hand over the lower rad hose port and fill rad with garden hose using upper port
When its full remove hose
Remove hand and let rad drain, should drain very very fast
You can tilt it a bit to make sure all the water is out
Now the test
Flip rad upside down and see if any water comes out, it could ONLY come from blocked cooling tubes, that couldn't drain
Repeat with rad in reverse direction
Also good to back flush heater core, but best to do this outside
With both heater hoses off use garden hose to flush out core in BOTH directions
And anytime you change coolant you should reverse heater hoses at the firewall, this back flushes while driving, lol, can increase life of heater cores
What kills heater cores is blockages in the smaller cooling tubes
Coolant has anti-corrosive chemicals for the metal parts of an engine, but it ONLY WORKS when its in contact with the metal parts, I know DUH
Well when heater core has a blockage then NO COOLANT circulates thru that tube and it starts to corrode, and then leaks into the cab
I would get new knock sensor, a pain to get to after intake is in, and the wires break
Thermostat housing can crack on these engines, so check it
New thermostat of course
Inspect coil pack for any cracks, not an issue but while its out.................have a look
You can do a flip test on radiator while its out
Put rad cap on
Put rad on its side so cooling tubes run up and down
Put your hand over the lower rad hose port and fill rad with garden hose using upper port
When its full remove hose
Remove hand and let rad drain, should drain very very fast
You can tilt it a bit to make sure all the water is out
Now the test
Flip rad upside down and see if any water comes out, it could ONLY come from blocked cooling tubes, that couldn't drain
Repeat with rad in reverse direction
Also good to back flush heater core, but best to do this outside
With both heater hoses off use garden hose to flush out core in BOTH directions
And anytime you change coolant you should reverse heater hoses at the firewall, this back flushes while driving, lol, can increase life of heater cores
What kills heater cores is blockages in the smaller cooling tubes
Coolant has anti-corrosive chemicals for the metal parts of an engine, but it ONLY WORKS when its in contact with the metal parts, I know DUH
Well when heater core has a blockage then NO COOLANT circulates thru that tube and it starts to corrode, and then leaks into the cab
The engine comes with all those gaskets.
Also comes with new oil pump
Good idea on the knock sensor
I'm a little confused on the radiator flush?
heater core flush, Check
#8
#9
#10
Balance shaft was added to the 4.0l SOHC engines when 4x4s went to Live Axles, or Explorers with AWD, front drive shaft always spins with front wheels.
Engineers thought that may cause a vibration in the vehicle, so they added a balancer shaft inside the engine.
After about 2005 or 6 4x4s were getting 4.0l SOHC engines with and without balancer shafts so seems it didn't matter
2WD's never had balancer shafts added, and I don't think it matters for 4x4s that much either
No, I don't have a recommendation for a rebuilt, have you called local machine shops to see what they would charge to rebuild yours?
That's what you get when you buy a rebuilt engine, its just not done by a local machine shop, with local warranty
Engineers thought that may cause a vibration in the vehicle, so they added a balancer shaft inside the engine.
After about 2005 or 6 4x4s were getting 4.0l SOHC engines with and without balancer shafts so seems it didn't matter
2WD's never had balancer shafts added, and I don't think it matters for 4x4s that much either
No, I don't have a recommendation for a rebuilt, have you called local machine shops to see what they would charge to rebuild yours?
That's what you get when you buy a rebuilt engine, its just not done by a local machine shop, with local warranty
#13
Not really worth all the effort when all the chain rebuilders offer a 3 year/100kmile warranty. And the machine shop is no cheaper
#14
🤣 Go ahead, try one of them chain rebuilders...........At this point if u can’t get a Ford reman I’d either use a reputable machine shop or salvage yard for a good low mileage motor! Do yourself a favor, try doing research on these So Called rebuilders....🙄🙄 I had a Marshal once, won’t ever happen again complete Piece of ****...
#15
🤣 Go ahead, try one of them chain rebuilders...........At this point if u can’t get a Ford reman I’d either use a reputable machine shop or salvage yard for a good low mileage motor! Do yourself a favor, try doing research on these So Called rebuilders....🙄🙄 I had a Marshal once, won’t ever happen again complete Piece of ****...
Cant say I have ever heard of marshal. But I found a company named Fraser that has nothing but BAD reviews
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