Hesitates in 1st and 2nd gear
#1
03-29-2018
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: El mirage AZ
Posts: 5
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Hesitates in 1st and 2nd gear
Hey all, just got a 2000 ranger xlt 204k miles, just changed the transmission fluid, engine oil, clean maf sensor, cleaned throttle body, clean the IAC and TPS, my truck has the EGR delete since i bought it, but when at a dead stop it hesistate to get into 1st gear then when shifting into 2nd its takes like 2-3 secs to get in gear, it doesnt make any noise or grind, when the truck is off its shifts into gear like butter or even down shifting into 2nd when turning smooth as butter, its just when at a dead stop or coming to a stop and going, any help?!
#2
03-30-2018
Welcome to the forum
You need to bleed the clutch system, which is hard in Rangers
Ranger hydraulic clutch system doesn't have any extra movement, lol, so any air in the system means the clutch disc will still be rubbing on flywheel and pressure plate when clutch pedal is down to the floor.
When you are stopped, the transmission is at 0 RPMs, it is directly connected to rear axle/wheels and driveline which are all at 0 RPMs
So to get transmission into 1st gear the clutch disc must slow down to 0 RPMs
Engine is idling at say 700 RPMs, and clutch disc is 10" in diameter, transmission synchro gear is maybe 5", so when you push it into 1st that 5" synchro must slow down that 10" disc to 0 RPMs
If there is ANY rubbing from the 700 RPM flywheel/pressure plate then that becomes very hard to do, for now try shifting into 3rd or 5th gear first to stop clutch disc, then shift to 1st.
When you are moving it becomes easier to "match RPMs", because that is ultimately what you are doing.
Because the Ranger clutch Master cylinder sits at an angle air can get trapped at the top, so hard to bleed out
First check clutch fluid reservoir, make sure it has fluid, it is just brake fluid, dot 3 is fine
There are many videos on bleeding Ranger clutch system
Google: bleeding ranger clutch
You need to bleed the clutch system, which is hard in Rangers
Ranger hydraulic clutch system doesn't have any extra movement, lol, so any air in the system means the clutch disc will still be rubbing on flywheel and pressure plate when clutch pedal is down to the floor.
When you are stopped, the transmission is at 0 RPMs, it is directly connected to rear axle/wheels and driveline which are all at 0 RPMs
So to get transmission into 1st gear the clutch disc must slow down to 0 RPMs
Engine is idling at say 700 RPMs, and clutch disc is 10" in diameter, transmission synchro gear is maybe 5", so when you push it into 1st that 5" synchro must slow down that 10" disc to 0 RPMs
If there is ANY rubbing from the 700 RPM flywheel/pressure plate then that becomes very hard to do, for now try shifting into 3rd or 5th gear first to stop clutch disc, then shift to 1st.
When you are moving it becomes easier to "match RPMs", because that is ultimately what you are doing.
Because the Ranger clutch Master cylinder sits at an angle air can get trapped at the top, so hard to bleed out
First check clutch fluid reservoir, make sure it has fluid, it is just brake fluid, dot 3 is fine
There are many videos on bleeding Ranger clutch system
Google: bleeding ranger clutch
#3
03-30-2018
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: El mirage AZ
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to the forum
You need to bleed the clutch system, which is hard in Rangers
Ranger hydraulic clutch system doesn't have any extra movement, lol, so any air in the system means the clutch disc will still be rubbing on flywheel and pressure plate when clutch pedal is down to the floor.
When you are stopped, the transmission is at 0 RPMs, it is directly connected to rear axle/wheels and driveline which are all at 0 RPMs
So to get transmission into 1st gear the clutch disc must slow down to 0 RPMs
Engine is idling at say 700 RPMs, and clutch disc is 10" in diameter, transmission synchro gear is maybe 5", so when you push it into 1st that 5" synchro must slow down that 10" disc to 0 RPMs
If there is ANY rubbing from the 700 RPM flywheel/pressure plate then that becomes very hard to do, for now try shifting into 3rd or 5th gear first to stop clutch disc, then shift to 1st.
When you are moving it becomes easier to "match RPMs", because that is ultimately what you are doing.
Because the Ranger clutch Master cylinder sits at an angle air can get trapped at the top, so hard to bleed out
First check clutch fluid reservoir, make sure it has fluid, it is just brake fluid, dot 3 is fine
There are many videos on bleeding Ranger clutch system
Google: bleeding ranger clutch
You need to bleed the clutch system, which is hard in Rangers
Ranger hydraulic clutch system doesn't have any extra movement, lol, so any air in the system means the clutch disc will still be rubbing on flywheel and pressure plate when clutch pedal is down to the floor.
When you are stopped, the transmission is at 0 RPMs, it is directly connected to rear axle/wheels and driveline which are all at 0 RPMs
So to get transmission into 1st gear the clutch disc must slow down to 0 RPMs
Engine is idling at say 700 RPMs, and clutch disc is 10" in diameter, transmission synchro gear is maybe 5", so when you push it into 1st that 5" synchro must slow down that 10" disc to 0 RPMs
If there is ANY rubbing from the 700 RPM flywheel/pressure plate then that becomes very hard to do, for now try shifting into 3rd or 5th gear first to stop clutch disc, then shift to 1st.
When you are moving it becomes easier to "match RPMs", because that is ultimately what you are doing.
Because the Ranger clutch Master cylinder sits at an angle air can get trapped at the top, so hard to bleed out
First check clutch fluid reservoir, make sure it has fluid, it is just brake fluid, dot 3 is fine
There are many videos on bleeding Ranger clutch system
Google: bleeding ranger clutch
#4
03-31-2018
That is normal all manual vehicles after about 1995 will do that.
An idling engine is a big polluter, needs to run rich or it will over heat which makes NOX emissions sky rocket, but rich also makes for bad emissions, so idle is a lose-lose situation, lol, emission-wise
So the computer will hold RPMs high until speedometer gets below about 5MPH.
It will also hold RPMs high for a few seconds when shifting, this is more for MPG than emissions but it helps both.
If engine "sounds loud" it could be Fan Clutch is stuck on, but that would be all the time not just slowing down.
To check just listen to engine noise at Cold Start, Fan Clutch will be lock on when cold, oil inside is cold so very thick
So on startup you should hear louder fan noise, and that should only last a few seconds, then the fan clutch will release and it will get quiet.
Very noticeable difference
If it stays loud, the same, then fan clutch is stuck on
Not a big deal but it could fail "off" in the future, at that time you will notice temp gauge climbing when engine is idling or you are driving in stop and go traffic.
The fan is really only there to keep air flowing thru radiator when vehicle is not moving, when driving at any speed the air flow thru the grill and rad is better than any fan could provide.
An idling engine is a big polluter, needs to run rich or it will over heat which makes NOX emissions sky rocket, but rich also makes for bad emissions, so idle is a lose-lose situation, lol, emission-wise
So the computer will hold RPMs high until speedometer gets below about 5MPH.
It will also hold RPMs high for a few seconds when shifting, this is more for MPG than emissions but it helps both.
If engine "sounds loud" it could be Fan Clutch is stuck on, but that would be all the time not just slowing down.
To check just listen to engine noise at Cold Start, Fan Clutch will be lock on when cold, oil inside is cold so very thick
So on startup you should hear louder fan noise, and that should only last a few seconds, then the fan clutch will release and it will get quiet.
Very noticeable difference
If it stays loud, the same, then fan clutch is stuck on
Not a big deal but it could fail "off" in the future, at that time you will notice temp gauge climbing when engine is idling or you are driving in stop and go traffic.
The fan is really only there to keep air flowing thru radiator when vehicle is not moving, when driving at any speed the air flow thru the grill and rad is better than any fan could provide.
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