Per the attached picture, i want to put vacuum caps in the areas where the green circles are. removing the hoses attached there. then put in a straight hose between the areas with the red circles.

i am wondering, if i do this, how would that affect circulation of coolant from the heater core, and proper cooling of the engine??

and, what is the purpose of those 'diversions' from that heater core hose between the red circles, and the hoses near the two green circles at the right?

 

Its probably a 3.0l engine

They had a tendency to get icing in upper throttle body in cold climates which caused running issues
So this pre-heater setup was added
You can just remove the hoses with the "T" and pull it all out, then replace with straight hoses leaving the throttle body ports open or you can cap them so bugs don't crawl in

 

Well RonD, its actually a 4 liter not a 3. and V6. is it still the same as what you said, safe to remove and add caps??

 

and ron, that middle hose between the two green circles at the right side of the image, wraps around the intake to the back where there is a wire connector for the hot positive crankcase ventilation valve. the other end of that hose, with the two circles, seems to have coolant circulating to the one end there. would those two hoses be part of the crankcase ventilation system?

 

No, the heated PVC is so it doesn't freeze up in cold climates, it can be removed as well, just the heater hoses not the PCV Valve

Didn't know the 4.0l SOHC ever got a pre-heater like that, it was a known issue on the 3.0l, icing, never read about the 4.0l suffering from that

 

i see. well i live in northwest oregon. any freezing rarely happens here in winter months. might get frost on the windows, but even that is a rarity.....

it is strange there at that splitter by the green circles that it seems to have coolant circulating around the ventilation valve. is coolant really being sprayed into the intake manifold there by the circles? those two small hoses in the two circles are part of the heater hose assembly.

so then, are you saying its okay to remove the two smaller hoses there (using caps), but leave the main ventilation hose connected?

and, what if i removed most of the ventilation hose, put a cap on the end by the two circles, and just let the other end be open at the back by the firewall? --leaving the wire connector connected?

 

No coolant is sprayed into the intake?

It circulates around the intake in a water jacket, to keep it warm

There is 14-18psi pressure inside these coolant hoses when engine warms up

 

So if i leave that water thing inside the manifold and put caps on those ports, do i needa worry bout the circulation of warm coolant not replacing the cooler liquid in that jacket??

Then, wut if i removed that jacket, would the manifold eventually get warm on its own?

 

OK, you can NOT delete those hoses on a 4.0l SOHC engine, they go to thermostat housing and lower intake, so you are stuck with them

They are not pre-heaters for the throttle body as seen on the 3.0l engines

 

okay ron, you are confusing me here.....

you just said earlier i could replace the one heater core hose with a straight continuous one, and put caps on the two ports at the green circles.

so which is it?? you say one thing at the beginning and now it seems you are saying the exact opposite

 

Not on the 4.0l SOHC

Disregard previous info, it was based on 3.0l cooling system

 

Okay, so what if i did put in a straight continuous hose at the heater core and put caps at the green circles??

 

it could be tho, that the engineers or whomever, may have left unchanged the design there that was used for the 3 liter version. similarly to how both 4 and 3 liter utilise the auxilliary transmission cooler, when the 2.3 liter didnt.

 

The engine would over heat, you need the circulation of those hoses, no way around it
It has nothing to do with throttle body icing issue on the 3.0l

 

well those two tiny hoses going to the green cirdles at the manifold, the intake itself has nothing to do with cooling. just vacuum and the comustion process.

coolant circulation goes on further below. where the two main heater hoses connect and the top and bottom radiator hoses. the thermostat itself has no connection to these hoses in question here with the picture.

the two small hoses there, are plainly associated with the crankcase ventilation

 

You have gone past what I know about the 4.0l SOHC cooling system hoses, so I can't comment further

 

well ron, i honesly know way less than you do and dont intend to purpose that i know more than you. but thank you very much for your input with my post here. i will eventually disconnect those hoses and switch in a straight hose for the one with the tee in it; and see how it all goes.

 

Let us know how it works out.

I think you're creating damage from crafting an overheating situation. There are hoses coming either into or away from the thermostat.
This means there's something akin to a bypass function going on. You don't want to upset the plastic parts....or the metal ones either.
Find something else to "fix" or modify.

 

Well george. I kno ware thermostat is and is not part of the curcuit of hoses in my picture. It is below the air intake port and has its own hoses. All these in the picture with the green circles are part of the 'heat' feature of the crankcase ventilation. I dont need that feature as it rarely gets below 50 degrees here in northwest oregon. Even rarer in the 40s. My intake manifold will not freeze.

This heat thing was mass produced for all vehicles. At least rangers in 2007 model year. Where i live a freeze very rarely ever happens. This modification, if anything, will just affect the ventilation not the thermometer.

 

well yall, it is finally done, and seems to be working fine. i even talked to several associates at a parts store. and they said that the hot positive crank case ventilation hose there, was really only 'required' or even used in vehicles that were suceptible to freezing environments. here in northwest oregon that is not an issue. tho most if not all rangers in this model year were cookie-cut with that feature.... they suggested i should be fine modifying it. which is exactly what i did, successfully.

per the pictures, the first one shows the new heater hose, the straighter one

the next picture shows the vacuum caps on the heat ports of the crank case ventilation port

the final picture shows an additional vacuum cap (in the red circle) on another heater core port, that used to connect to one of the two heat ports on the crank case port in second picture.

ive started engine and there are no leaks. i very highly doubt there will be any 'freeze' issues on this intake manifold due to freezing temperatures which will be non existent.

furthermore, the hose in the second picture below the bottom red cap, would be going to where the thermometer is, and that hose was unaffected by this modification.

the third picture as well shows a fuller view of this hose i just mentioned, as it comes from the other heater hose and goes directly, uninterrupted to the area near the thermometer. this hose actually, doesnt even connect to the thermometer, but goes to another part of the engine. yet all the same, that hose is not part of this modification.

the only thing modified in this project was the method the crank case ventilation receives heat. of which now, it will not receive (hot coolant); especially as it is technically not needed in my location.
thank you for your input and reading. :)

new heater hose

hot crank case caps

heater hose cap

 

What's the purpose of doing this? Cooler running engine, more cab heat, better mpg.

 

stumpman, there really isnt a purpose per se of my doing this. a really necessary one that is... for me, when there is something in or on the truck that i either dont need or use; or in itself has no need or use in the forseeable future, i intend to remove or disable it. --the heat part of this ventilation is the current 'issue'. it was harming nothing and there was nothing at all wrong with the engine. in this modification, it was removing an unnecessary part....

i have, just as well, removed the air conditioning, all fuel vapor lines and related parts (this actually improved my mileage on removal), heater blower box modification, disabled, disconnected and removed anti lock brake system, and modified the split bench seat to look entirely like sport/bucket seat. as such seats werent available without both changing trim level and going with extended cabin. which, i didnt want...

future and soon to be modifications will be removing power steering; switching of course to manual steering, putting in a different master cylinder to complete full removal of power brake booster, and completely disabling the passive anti theft system, without using a bypass.

the suggested purposes you gave here for the crank case venitlation modification are not applicable. it was done for no good reason. and i dont expect there to be ANY improvement or system degradation.

 

"That's cool", is an expression people employ when they want to back off or signal that they've had enough of a topic.

In this case, it really is cool that you're "customizing" your vehicle to your liking. I honestly hope the work goes well and you get the desired result.
You're not worshiping their silly toys either; you're streamlining. Bravo.
Also, putting the work in yourself elevates the "wholesomeness count" of the entire endeavor.

Earlier on I thought you were just making "busy work" for yourself. "What's this guy doing and for what?", I thought.
Obviously this is your thing not anyone else's.

Regarding removal of the heating circuit to the PCV valve: You know vehicles (obviously) so you know crankcase pressure is better bled off than allowed to build up and blow out seals. The gooky, black crud contains water vapor and while your's might not freeze, it does accumulate. The PCV valve in my 4.0l had its heating pipe in place but my original, with just 50K, was almost completely clogged. I've read Ford recommends 30K changes which I'll happily do. However, my heating pipe may have softened the crud to a point where the PCV valve would pass its fumes and likely saved my seals.
The darn thing doesn't need to freeze to clog up so keep it cleaned and changed if needed.

Regarding the conversion to manual steering: Manual steering hardware might be real different than the stuff driven by hydraulic pressure. Whatever you do there, I hope you can get parts for reasonable money.

Regarding removal of all vapor lines: You may get away with this because you live in Oregon. I believe they do not have emission testing in the Beaver State. Am I correct?
Of course poisoning the air with released vapors is everybody's thing, not just yours. If you get caught I believe you're in for a whackin' fine.

Best of luck.

 

firstly here, long story short, the vacuum cap i used in the red circle in the third picture; i replaced with one of the red ones appearing in the second picture. well on the drive home from work this morning, i noticed alot of 'smoke'/fumes coming from behind me near exhaust. i thot it was maybe pertaining to the evaporative emission modification i made. but that was done last year......with no such side effects. so....... when i got home, i raised the hood, and examined things. --it seems the red cap i used in that red circle, was less heat resistant than i thought. likely more vinyl than rubber.... that red cap either melted or was blown off by natural system pressure. i wasnt thinkin.............. well, that 20 minute drive home, burned through or blewe out at least half my coolant. --and i am otherwise out of RUBBER vacuum caps. SO, i fabricated a sort of plug while also using a short length of rubber hose. that has now replaced, i hope permanently; the missing vacuum cap. i am also broke presently, so i gotta find some money to buy a gallon of prestone to be able to drive to work tonight. mind you, this crank case heater modification has nothing at all to do with this coolant leak. its more to do with not using a hose clamp where i should have. --the two red caps in that second picture are merely just 'dust' caps, and they are not suceptible to any pressure.

SO THEN, back to my normal reply here.......................................


thank you george for your kind words and input here.

while it seems i know alot here, it is merely due to stuff i see and can learn from my official shop related ford workshop manuals and whatever i can find from 1 a auto youtube videos. they are VERY detailed and WAY better than a chilton or haynes thin handbook.

i knew nothing about releasing crank case pressure. i had seen some instruction about removing the throttle body air thing on the front of the manifold, and cleaning it. i did that and saw a VERY thin layer of blackness in places, but it was more wet and very thin than anything. i wiped what i could from the throttle body and the metal disc part of the accelerator, and put it all back together. other than the color, it all looked pretty clean. but the black plastic of the intake manifold made it difficult to see how dirty it all was. and, mind you, this whole modification was to 'remove' hoses from the heat part of the ventilation hose. nothing else. not the valve. none of that. the heater core hoses are removed now and the 'ports' of the heat part now have caps.

this truck i bought new special order through fleet in 2006. a 2007 model. i am the first and only user and it is all paid for.... it is serviced very well and at just over 100,000 miles. i take it to a ford dealership and im sure that when their multiple point inspection finds that i need a new ventilation hose or valve they will notify me. so far, nothing.

and the vapor line removal, it is really dependent on what city i live in, for the testing. im in salem, and there is no testing here. a major city tho here, 40 miles north, is portland, and they require tests. i dont plan on moving anytime soon, so salem i shall stay. i kept all the vapor parts and would happily pay someone to reinstall it for me as im NOT gonna put that all back myself.

 

I have since repaired the leak, fabricating a 'cap' from some rubber hose and a vacuum cap. and found several unopened or used gallons of antifreeze. so, all leaks are repaired and coolant is refilled to proper level.

the truck is driving just fine. thermostat also staying to the left of middle and doesnt ever get too hot. we've even had some frosty weather recently, scraped the windshield. yet with this modification, the intake manifold has had no 'freeze' issues.

thank you all for your input!