gurgle, rattle, timing chain tensioner
#1
gurgle, rattle, timing chain tensioner
My truck was gurgling a bit at cold start, and had an engine tapping/rattle noise. I just changed my right side timing chain tensioner yesterday. I heard its supposed to be done every 170k or so and will screw the engine if I let it go on. I'm closer to 280k.
It ran like a dream at first after I re&re'd the tensioner but now its gone back to a gurgle when starting and rattling. Maybe I didn't tighten it enough? Maybe the chain is done for? Maybe I'm changing the wrong tensioner, or maybe I'm not even on the right track?
I'm considering changing the other two tensioners to see what happens. I'm getting it ready to hit the highway this weekend for work, not sure if it's going to happen!
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by shaun; 04-14-2020 at 05:14 PM. Reason: typooo
#2
Assuming a 2001-2011 Ranger with 4.0l SOHC engine??
Once there is a rattle the damage is done, a chain guide is broken
There is no adjustment, you just install the tensioners
The passenger side rear was most common guide to break, but drivers side front will break as well when tensioner fails
The 2 long chain tensioners are hydraulic but have a spring to hold the chain tight for startup until oil pressure can take over
1997-2002 4.0l SOHCs could have poor springs so had a higher failure rate
So on startup the chain would bang against the guide and over time break it loose from the block/head, and thats what rattles
Ford redesigned the tensioners in 2001/2 and they started to use the new design in 2003 model year, but its approx. I would still change tensioners on a 2003 when I got it
And any other year after 100k miles not 170k
You will need to pull out the engine to redo both long chains and guides
You can only use Motorcraft tensioners, no 3rd party brands even though they are WAY CHEAPER, these are not parts to cheap out on
Once there is a rattle the damage is done, a chain guide is broken
There is no adjustment, you just install the tensioners
The passenger side rear was most common guide to break, but drivers side front will break as well when tensioner fails
The 2 long chain tensioners are hydraulic but have a spring to hold the chain tight for startup until oil pressure can take over
1997-2002 4.0l SOHCs could have poor springs so had a higher failure rate
So on startup the chain would bang against the guide and over time break it loose from the block/head, and thats what rattles
Ford redesigned the tensioners in 2001/2 and they started to use the new design in 2003 model year, but its approx. I would still change tensioners on a 2003 when I got it
And any other year after 100k miles not 170k
You will need to pull out the engine to redo both long chains and guides
You can only use Motorcraft tensioners, no 3rd party brands even though they are WAY CHEAPER, these are not parts to cheap out on
#3
Mechanic pulled out the engine and replaced the front and rear timing chain cassettes...installed new Ford brand tensioners...put the motor back in and it starts and sounds good.Has plenty of power...Engine has 141000 miles... I drove truck approximately 250 miles and when I got i it to start it 1st thing this morning... turned key over... Hi rev at start up... check gauges light comes on.. and oil pressure gauge shows low oil pressure.... so I waited a few seconds and shut it off. waited about 10 minutes and started it up and no high rev..or low oil pressure.... what do you suggest/ think is going on now
#4
There is just an oil pressure switch on any 1988 and up Ranger, so low oil pressure on the gauge is an electrical issue not oil pressure
The oil pressure switch is ON when pressure is above 5psi, and OFF(0 on the gauge) when pressure is below 5psi, like before you start the engine
Cold start RPMs are based on outside temperature, the colder it is the higher the cold start idle
And for start up(key on) the computer opens the IAC Valve all the way, so engine should REV high and then start to drop
Cold idle can be as high as 1,300 below freezing outside
Then it should start to drop every minute of run time until coolant temp gets to 140degF or so, then it should be 700 with manual, 800 for automatic trans
If engine REVed high but didn't drop then IAC Valve could have stuck open all the way, turn key off and back on may have unstuck it
That could just be from some moisture inside the valve
PCV valve can also stick open, they get gummed up or can freeze if its cold enough, thats a Vacuum leak that causes high idle temporarily until it warms up a bit
The oil pressure switch is ON when pressure is above 5psi, and OFF(0 on the gauge) when pressure is below 5psi, like before you start the engine
Cold start RPMs are based on outside temperature, the colder it is the higher the cold start idle
And for start up(key on) the computer opens the IAC Valve all the way, so engine should REV high and then start to drop
Cold idle can be as high as 1,300 below freezing outside
Then it should start to drop every minute of run time until coolant temp gets to 140degF or so, then it should be 700 with manual, 800 for automatic trans
If engine REVed high but didn't drop then IAC Valve could have stuck open all the way, turn key off and back on may have unstuck it
That could just be from some moisture inside the valve
PCV valve can also stick open, they get gummed up or can freeze if its cold enough, thats a Vacuum leak that causes high idle temporarily until it warms up a bit
#5
So it’s been cold and there has been a couple 3 times when I have started the engine... it revs high for several seconds... then does idle down after 15 seconds or so... but the oil pressure gauge needle will drop... the warning beep will sound... then in a few sends the oil pressure gauge will go back up... and it may .. beep again ..and go back down..or it may not..... is this an electrical issue
#6
So it’s been cold and there has been a couple 3 times when I have started the engine... it revs high for several seconds... then does idle down after 15 seconds or so... but the oil pressure gauge needle will drop... the warning beep will sound... then in a few sends the oil pressure gauge will go back up... and it may .. beep again ..and go back down..or it may not..... is this an electrical issue
Need a YEAR and engine model?
Might be better to start your own thread
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