i have used the gray/white wire on my installations

 

There is some discussion about that here. After the how-to

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ghlight=jusnes

 

i used the pruple wire at first. now its just switched with a 12v wire.

 

For what it's worth.. I was a cooling engineer for 6 years (all ford projects)

Ford has a policy about thier trucks concerning towing and hot weather extended idling. (this applies to police cars too) In those conditions you generally have low rpms and high loads. That means high heat and not much pump speed to keep the coolant velocity up.

The solution is to in effect *overcool* the fluid at low rpms / vehicle speeds. Hence the mechanical fan that spins all the time.

Going with a e-fan is certianly doable in those conditions. But to meet the high standards set (by Ford) you'd have to upgrade the electrical system to handle the substancial loads at such rpms. A good part of which is at idle or nearly at idle in hot climates.

If you guys are'nt towing 3000+lbs then do this mod. It's well worth your effort and expense. The water pumps bearing will live for ever, the motor will run smoother, you'll get better milage, the motor will warm up quicker, and as long as you get a high quality aftermarket setup you won't need to sweat on road conditions like salt and grime. (I personally use flex-a-lite products)

As far as power increases.. yes you will see some. But not much really. The modern day mechanical fans are very very efficient once they are up to operating temps.
Going down the hwy you'll only be saving about 1/4 hp. Full rpm acceleration you'll see around 8-10hp at best (depending on the fans fluid temp). And the biggest power gains come at very low rpms. Like just off idle. You gotta remember that your butt will only tell a difference in power based on percentage. For example you can't really feel a 5ft lbs TQ increase at 4000rpms on a 240TQ motor. But a 5ft lbs TQ increase at 1500 rpms is definately noticable.
Just off idle the motor is making something like 40ft lbs of TQ. Removing the mech fan can free up a noticable amount at those low power levels and you'll feel it.

This will be one of the first mods to my new truck. (I have a S-blade and flex-a-lite controller ready for it)

Rich

 

I had the JM fan on mine for a few months, but ended up taking it off & putting the mechanical fan back on. I loved the fan & enjoyed ALL the benefits already listed. However, it did not keep my tranny cool in temps above about 90-95 F. My tranny temps would run anywhere in the 200-240 F WITHOUT towing anything. Put a trailer on it......forget it. I put the mechanical fan back on and my temps dropped right back down to where they were before the e-fan.

My personal belief is because the smaller 16" e-fan pulled air through a more concentrated area of the radiator, which basically missed the tranny cooler altogether. I believe if the fan was an 18" fan (same as stock mechanical fan), and mounted in the stock shroud, in the same position as the mech-fan it couldn't be beat for cooling. That way, it not only frees up the engine power, but still pulls air across the entire radiator area. I want to buy a shroud and 18" e-fan to try this theory, but not sure how I would mount it to the shroud. Damn shame there isn't one that could be pulled from another vehicle.

 

E-fan ? Great Investment!!!!!! , Very Smooth Operation. j/m kit is ok by me.

 

Thanks for that tid bit! I'll make sure to address it when I put mine on.

Rich

 

No prob. How do you plan to do that? If I could solve my tranny temp problems, I'd like to put mine back on.

 

I've not looked at my ranger that close yet. (Only had the truck for a week now)

Most auto tranny rads plumb the cooler piping through the core/coolant at the bottom. I've seen one or two that piped it through the side vertically. But most are on the bottom of the core.

I've got an autotap w/ford package and will make sure to do a before and after data log of the tranny temps.

I'd say to just make sure you have airflow accross the portition of the core where the piping is. I've done this on several cars and have never had a problem. Including the lightning and cruising woodward for 8+ hrs in 0-2mph traffic. (flex-a-lite 270 kit)

Sorry I can't give more specific info.. but I just have'nt spent any time on my truck yet so as to take a close look at it.

Rich

 

If Bob's 16" fan is really 2750cfm for an aftermarket unit then it is well worth the money and I might look into one during tax time. My Mustang has an SN-95 Mustang one on it and although it is stout it draws a lot of amps (factory fans do) and takes an *** load to kick on. I have a 100amp relay just to kick it on! Aftermarket fans have much less draw, but usually low CFM compared to factory, but 2750cfm for an aftermarket fan for $160 is a steal.

 

There is a solution to the high start up draw. The flex-a-lite controller ramps up the fan/fans based on cooling needs. And if it's demanding 100% it still ramps up the speed to keep from tagging the system too hard.

It's a pricey little thing at $70 But I have two of them and would readily recommend them to anybody.

btw TORQUERULES: Is the Lightnings blower ported? Spinning that 6lb lower on a stock eaton hurts top end power.

Rich