That hurt didn't it I agree with what he says about plugs and it hurts me.

You had that problem also I tried installing them in my brothers '00 Cummins

Must be your favorite picture today

 

Oh I hear ya. It has been here and many other sites for a while now. I didn't figure it would invade R-F as fast as it did.

 

send me a PM with your email in it and i will do it for you. I am board today at work

 

I'm sure the 50 shot had nothing to do with it..

I am running these plugs, they are fine..

 

Ha ha! Yes...

Well, like I said, they work for me. Now where there's smoke there usually is some fire so I'm sure this unusual design of this plug HAS caused problems in certain applications. In addition, there may have been early quality or engineering problems that were resolved later on, don't know.

I just know I'm using them successfully. I'll let our "automotive jesuits" argue it out while I just enjoy my truck.

 

I ran em in my 99 4.0 years ago, and IMO they SUCK and I will NEVER buy em again. One spark is all you need to ignite the air/fuel in the cylinders, plus after not even 5K miles they made my engine spark-knock. I replaced em with Motorcraft fine-wire platinum, its never ran better.

 

Even with the multiple GND electrodes, you will still only get 1 spark!

 

Precisley!!

 

You only need one spark. But it's not necessarily true that you will always get the best spark in the same place depending on mixing.

Furthermore, as the electrodes wear, the wear is distributed among all of them. You oversimplify to prove they CAN'T work, but totally fail to explain why they DO work for some of us.

It's amazing to me that you guys can be so pissed about this, and so detached from the reality that they work in some applications? Why? You haven't the faintest idea because you really never understood why they DIDN'T work either when that happened.

So, you are arguing about something you don't understand, using arguments that don't apply, and expecting us to see you as sages.

I understand that they haven't worked for some of you aces -- and of course it could never have been anything you did. The fact was: it didn't work.

Fact is: they do work in my truck and work well.

As usual, Bob, you are 90% emotion and 10% reason. It's really a hoot to see you go like this. I'll try to keep you wound up as long as I can since you seem to enjoy it...

 

i have the bosch fusion plugs with 8.5mm super conductor wires from msd and the screamin demon coil pack... not a problem... just everything is so damn controversial

 

Like I said in my "edited" post up top, my engine is a OHV, most of you guys have the SOHC engine. Maybe thats why, maybe not. Im not tryin to be in any kind of pissing contest, just stating my opinion.

 

.....Scamsoil and Bosch plugs in a Ranger......they go together!!

 

I have had Bosch platinum 4's in my truck since 60,000 miles. I now have 101000 miles with no problems. I bought them before I read that they were somehow bad but nothing wrong so far. Would I buy them again? Maybe.

 

You have just proven you don't have a clue how Ford's EDIS works! The center electrode erodes on the plugs in one bank, while the GND electrode erodes on the plugs in the other bank due to 2 plugs firing together in series with opposite polarity spark. No emotion in this, just technical fact that you
don't understand!

Then again.........anybody that would fall for Scamsoil's BS, I'm not surprised!

 

You still haven't explained why they work for me, or why they didn't work for you. For all your technical "superiority", I don't see any explanations, Bob -- you are all insult and energy and no USEFUL facts.

The only reason the Ford plugs ERODE like that is that they are not double platinum. In double platinum plugs the erosion is not polarity based. Or did you not know that the stock Ford plugs were sold in sets for the right and left sides because they were single platinum? I thought you knew this stuff?

So, lets see now: Bob doesn't understand spark plugs, especially Ford ones, and he doesn't understand lubricants, and when he gets cornered he just hurls insults.

Hmmm...sounds like you're a loser, Bob. You always were on the forums because you can't discuss anything. You have an actual NEED to insult folks and you come out looking for a place to do it.

Too bad you came here....

 

Yet another problem you have, Bob: you can't prove it's BS and I can prove it's not. I've done 1 year, 20K mile oil changes and had oil analysis that showed it worked. What have you done besides made up cute little words like "Scamsoil".

You'd make a great demagogue, Bob -- if you know what that is, lol.

 

I have not tried the bosh plugs but have heard many bad things about them, everyone that I talk to and I work in a parts store so that is a lot on individuals when it comes to these things all are telling me to stick with motorcraft, autolite or NGK irridums, if you do go with the bosh 4+ let us know how they work I am going to do a tune up here in the next few months so I am curious

 

I think you use them at a risk considering the problems. I too have a pushrod lower output engine and that may have something to do with it much like the guy with the OHV 4.0.

It would be nice if among the emotional noise, someone really knew what makes these plugs different -- why they work some places but not others, etc. I never recommend them -- but I have to tell the truth: they work for me. I don't know why either, lol -- but the people saying they are junk have no data to support their contentions for the most part. Some of the applications where they've failed have been more extreme performance applications also, which muddies the analysis.

If, as some content, a spark is a spark, there would be only one kind of plug for everything but we know that's not true.

So what makes a plug work and in what conditions? If anyone who really KNOWS joined the discussion it would be refreshing, lol.

 

I'm a serious gear head.. and a serious fan of the +2 bosch plugs. Because of years of pushing them hard with different cars/trucks, under boost, nitrous, towing, and daily driving. I've determined that they seem to run a bit hotter than the stock replacement part number.
I suspect this is why some report pinging.
As far as running bad... I don't know why this is. Maybe it has to do with the rangers waste a spark system?

The real advantage you get from the +2 and the +4 plug is an unshrouded flame front. You'll notice a bit more tip in power (throttle response), and a shade better milage. The idle is smoother for a while.. but after a good 30k miles it's not any better than the stock ford plugs.

**IMO** (and experience) the +4 plugs are not worth the cost. But the +2 is.

Just know that if you do any hard operation like 4000+ rpms, boost, nitrous, or freeway towing? You'll want to step them down one range colder. A general DD ranger would be ok with the proper replacement part number.

And for what it's worth.. there is no substitute for a Denso-ITxx It's a very expensive plug at $11 per. But it'll idle like no other on the planet *and* it'll take serious punishment as long as you keep the burn cool enough.

Regards,
Rich

 

That's the most info I've heard yet, thanks.

My 3.0 is pushed "hard" offroad just because it's underpowered for what I do -- but nothing like a racer does. You may have helped explain what the problem is.

I suspect that the design of the Bosch, either by design or as a side effect, tends to run hotter due to the mass of the electrodes. I've heard the "run one range colder" on these as well as other plugs over the years -- but especially on +2's and +4's.

But my overall use pattern is probably why I don't have any problem with them. My cut MAF caused rougher idling that masks any effect of the plugs so much any change I "feel" would probably be subjective and not very proveable.

But I did think they helped over the stock plugs I was running -- although they had 60K on them when replaced so that doesn't mean a lot.

With those Denso's you spoke of, do they require going "off the application chart" for higher performance or are they okay as is?

 

Off topic kinda but I pulled a plug on my 02 with 66K on the tach just to see what condition it was in. Holy crap, didn't know they ran so much gap! I forgot to measure it but it was pretty big to me. Might be normal since I don't know the spec.

What is the plug gap spec on a 02 4.0 SOHC? Factory plugs, Motorcraft Platinum AGSF 34FP. I thought I might replace them and add JBA power wires just for the heck of it. Are they any good? Thanks.

 

Sorry John, I've been out lately.

I learned about the Desno IT series from the Lightning crowd. In my lightning I've sprayed a 100 shot on top of 16psi of boost and they work fine. (IT-20s) My old standby was the NGK TR6. That plug is very tough but after about 20 1/4 mile trips and a little street driving they get to idling rough.

I've been using the Denso IT20 in my Caddy too. It idles smoother than the original desno's that were in the car! 100 shot on it, and have well over 35k miles on them since installed.

I've got a set ready to go in the Ranger when I have the need for a stronger / cooler burn. (coming soon)


As far as heat ranges. On a NA 3.0 I'd just stick with what ever is recommended for stock. Unless your at 4000+ rpms and fully loading the engine a colder plug isn't going to help.

Here is a little graph that's been posted out on the Lightning forums. It's intended to compare one brand against another for certian boost levels within the 5.4L SC motors. Not too sure about it's accuracy.. but IMO it's not too far off from the plugs I've tried. (ford, denso, NGK) It may not be directly helpful to a stock ranger guy. But at least it compares ford numbers against some of the competition in real world heavy abuse situations.

 

I run +4's with no issues and have already replaced them once after about 60-70k