What about test, key off CKP unplugged
test OHMs between wires
Then key on and test volts between wires

Then with CKP unplugged, crank engine over, it won't start, CEL should stay ON, then don't turn key OFF, and test wires again for volts

I can't see PCM failing in this manner

 

EDIT*

I keep making mistakes, so I apologize for the run-around. Sensor tests okay, I was testing wrong.

With key on, I get 0.0 volts across the ckp sensor harness.
After cranking, still 0.0 volts at harness.

 

Wow, I really shouldn't be doing this kind of work when I make mistakes like this. I assumed that having the PCM disconnected for weeks while I rebuilt the engine was sufficient to clear the KAM. I just did the manual reset procedure, jumping the pos lead to the neg lead with neg disconnected from battery for 10 minutes. Started it up, no codes, runs perfect. Took it out and drove it for 10 minutes, no issues. Brought it back, checked for leaks, checked for codes, no issues. Gonna take it on a long drive here in an hour or so to relearn parameters but I think the issue was in not resetting the KAM after a major rebuild. Thanks again for all the help, there's no way I would have pulled this off without the forums and awesome members like RonD.

 

So that didn't do it either. Truck started up and ran normally for the first start after KAM reset. On the second start, it was hunting for idle again. If I give it throttle, the rpm drops and it tries to die. After I shut it back down, I got the p0320 code again. I'm lost. I know that when relearning the parameters there can be drivability issues, but it barely drives or runs and it sounds horrible when I try to drive it in this condition so I'm afraid to try driving it to see if it changes anything. This time it misfired 10 times while it was running(odb2 pcm misfire PID), but I didn't get misfire codes for any specific cylinders.

 

Well, after nearly a month the truck is back to life and running well. The culprit? Turns out the gasket for the coil pack plug got crushed in by the plug and was bridging the terminals. Had me hunting all over for problems that didn't exist due to the ckp codes and PIP issues.

The gasket isn't super tight after 15 years and the plug will crush it rather than slide into it. It works if you put the gasket on the plug and then plug it in, I just didn't notice it since it's so far back and close to the firewall.

Anyway, going out for the second test drive in a bit, still bleeding air out of the cooling system.
What a relief to be done with this job. Thanks for all the help and thanks Ron for answering my silly questions.

 

Thats a new one for me

Just take heater hoses off at the firewall, then refill from rad, that lets all the air out of the engine side, when coolant starts to come out the hoses air is gone

Also remember to reverse heater hoses at the firewall every year or so, it back flushes heater core, while driving, to keep it cleaner so it lasts longer

 

Aloha!
Hey Ron I got another new one!
So 100k miles and I blew a head gasket. I'm okay with that for my first time rebuilding one of these.
I just finished replacing timing and treating the heads now for the second time, and on start I had the same damn rough idle and P0320.
I checked everything. Pcm, harness, sensors, ignition, then had a shop put an oscilloscope on it. Crank waveform was correct but not properly synchronized to cam waveform.
The culprit? New Ford oem harmonic balancer tone ring had shifted about .070"
I'm assuming that I spun it with the timing tool when tightening something and having it attached. What a bloody nightmare.