I have a 2011 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4 with a lot of things on my mind that makes me curious if it's normal or if it's something that needs to be fixed. More just frustrating. I don't look forward to driving it.

While driving smoothly such as cruise control on the highway, you get sudden "loss of power" or a "bind" feeling but only for a split second. Almost feels like you're hitting bumps. Is this what torsion bars feel like? If it means anything, the first time I bought the truck, it would take forever to start up. Turned over and over with with plenty of power from the battery to keep it going. I'd leave it alone for maybe ten seconds, try again and it would start right up. Bad injectors or a failing fuel pump? I used a lot of STP injector cleaner and that helped for a while but still maybe once a month, I'll have a cold start where people stop to see if they need to help as they hear the engine just keep turning over. I checked sparks through a live OBD2 scanner and all checked out well on each bank.

Shifting from reverse, back into drive, car wants to stall but never does. (at random)

The truck I bought at 88,000 miles. Just hit 100,000.
At idle, truck feels like it wants to throw up, like fever chills but RPMs look smooth. Idles perfectly but then almost shudders but I can't see the needle change.(at random)

Another concern in this "clunk" you get when accelerating and then letting off the gas. Almost feels like the drive shaft is banging around or possible slip yoke? I've tried digging around underneath to find anything loose. U-Joints feel good, wheel bearings are solid, transmission mount solid, etc. I do have major whining noise when placing vehicle in reverse and drive. Another "some Rangers whine" thing.

I place at random because tech shops always state "can't duplicate" so I just get the truck tossed back at me.

Could all this be a possible bad transmission or torque converter.

Apologize for the extensive ask. I've been replacing a lot of things(fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition coils, oil/filter, transmission fluid/filter) and cleaned throttle body, TPS, MAS. No codes since the day I bought the truck.

 

None of that stuff is normal. The only thing I might be able to help you with is the clunk in the drivetrain when accelerating or letting off. The slip joint (if you have one) in the drive shaft can get the lube dried out in it. It is not a difficult job to re-lube, but it is important to use the right lube to get long term use out of it. Removal of the driveshaft makes it a much easier job.

 

Tranny (MerconV+Filter & Bands adjusted),
TransferCase (MerconLV),
Differentials (75w140.FullSyn+FricModifier@Rear & 75w90,FullSyn@Front),
AxleHubBearings (Grease),
all need service every 33kMiles\4years.

 

@IN2 FX4 Your tip to remove that boot over the slip joint fixed the clunk. I removed the boot to find a very white watery/oily grease inside. I removed what I could and placed some Valvoline multipurpose grease inside, used a hose clamp to secure the boot again and went for a drive. I'll be damned. No more clunk and luckily the hose clamp didn't throw off the balance.

@DILLARD000 Transfer case, tranny and differentials have had their service done. However, I did not know you could adjust transmissions themselves like you said with a band adjustment. I am the second owner of this vehicle, bought it used from CarMax. Should've said that from the beginning. They won't give you any information that THEY have done so I don't have a clue if anything has been re-serviced. I can see the Carfax from the original owner but it's just routine oil changes. I had to have them replace the 4x4 shift motor assembly for the transfer case after they told me it was fixed three or four times so I don't want to know what else they know about it.

I guess it comes down to the sudden "power" loss. I keep track of my mileage. Full tank prior, I've seen an average of 330-340 miles. I've just hit empty after a full tank and now just sitting at 290 miles. I'll have to dig a little more but I can't figure out what it might be without spending more on parts I may not need. At idle, if you give it gas real quick and let it settle, it'll dip down to around 500 RPM like it's going to die and then slowly catch it's breath. And from time to time, just giving it gas at idles it wants to shudder.

Again, @IN2 FX4 Thank you.

 

Give your TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) a look. Their voltage output is linear and easily measured.
Also, in the same location, see if your accelerator cable has stretched. There's an easy fix with small zip-ties which take up any slack.

 

Does his later model 2011 Ranger have the electric DriveByWire ThrottleBody?
If so, then no Cable to the GasPedal & TPS is also a different "animal", integrated into the ThrottleBody motor cover; not sure?
Suspect @RonD knows?

 

Glad you at least got the clunk fixed. Ford has a grease specifically for that. If what you used works well, that is good. If it does not last long you might try the Ford grease. Good luck with the rest of the issues.

Many people use a zip tie to hold the boot. I figured out a way to use the original band. A hose clamp is good too it it does not affect balance.