Hi, first time poster, long time lurker.

I have a 1999 3.0 V6 Ranger. I accidentally broke this part (see photo) while removing the lower Radiator hose. The part is connected to the bottom half of the thermostat housing. Does anyone know what this part is called. I'll also need the connector that's screwed into the top. I hope the photo is clear enough. Thanks.

 

engine coolant temperature sensor

 

djfllmn, thanks! But what about the part that the sensor is connected to? It's the hex shaped part below the coolant sensor.

 

Thats the rest of the sensor.
It goes inside that whole. If you broke it, you most likely split it right at the cover there. The hex shaped nut thing will be used to get it out, slap a wrench on there and remember. Lefty loosey, Righty tighty.

 

Sorry, I should've been more specific. I meant the larger hex shaped part. I attached another picture. I went to 2 auto parts stores, and both said I need to go to the dealership. Can anyone confirm? I now know to simply cut the bottom hose off rather than trying to work it off. I'm planning on replacing the hose anyway. I kept moving the hose side-to-side thinking the hose was getting loose, but I actually broke the nipple right off this part.

 

Got that same problem right now with a 2000 Ranger 3.0, would love to know what that part is before heading to the dealership, also curious how easy it was to remove, with the A/C line in the way.

Thanks

Alias

 

Remove the coolant temperature sensor first. The "mystery part" came out relatively easy with an open ended wrench.

 

Awesome thanks for the info. BTW what was that mystery part called?

 

Temp sensor port, ford can look it up, it is just a piece to be able to mount the sensor in a way to not interfere with belt routing. A.k.a. Bung port. Ford also has a web site for looking up parts. Google it but I think it's fordpart.com not sure. I have it saved at work but not on my own computer.

 

Went to the local ford dealer. The part # is: F77Z-18599-AA
Its simply called an Elbow and its main purpose is as Killergo4 described. Cost was $30...I wish I was a bit more careful about removing that hose :(

 

Just came across your post while trying to look up the same problem. Got the new part from FORD, but when I try to thread it in, the fuel nipple keeps bumping up against the tensioner pulley bracket between the part and the A/C compressor. Any suggestions, were you able to screw your new part into the engine without any problems or is there some trick I don't know about. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

correction, I meant nipple for the lower radiator hose...not fuel nipple. Sorry

 

You may have to remove the A/C compressor to get it back on... or cut some of the new elbow off and re-flare the end.

I had the same problem a while back however, Instead of replacing the fitting, my solution was to put the temperature sensor where the fitting went and plug the hose with something. It has been running for over a month so far with no problems.

 

Sorry for the sloow response. I don't remember having any difficulties installing the new elbow. I believe the area was clear, due to fact that I was replacing my entire cooling system. I believe you may be able to swing the A/C compressor assembly/bracket out of the way by loosening a few (hard to reach) bolts.

Here's a helpful link:
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...ump%20pictures

 

Care to share an update on how that has worked out for you or from anyone else who tried it? I am tasked with replacing this POS housing for the 2nd time in 2 years when I noticed the threads of both units(sensor+sensor housing) look close, if not identical. That bifurcated hose seems to bypass the block & heater core sending coolant straight back to lower radiator. What is the point or is this a case of gross over-engineering? The adage "better is the enemy of good enough" appears to apply here. Am I wrong?

I am just beginning to research this method to bypass and have yet to tear into it. Any feedback would be appreciated, including any links to more substantial discussion on this topic.

Help me Obi Wan Kenobi...you're my only hope...

 

Well, It has been around 5 months now since i did this, and still i have not had any problems, the only thing i have noticed is the truck takes a little longer to warm up when its cold out.

The threads should be exactly the same, or mine were, and the extra hose is still plugged on mine. (meant to replace it with a lower hose that did not have it, but never got around too it.)

I had seen a diagram somewhere it seems, that showed the sensor in that spot on some of the older 3.0's, I will see if i can find it and post it here.

As far as the purpose of it on these engines, the only benefits of it that i could tell were, warming the engine up faster, and possibly when the thermostat was closed it could still circulate some amount of water.

Edit* Could not find the diagram but here some some links to other discussions about the part. They don't have a lot of information, i just know a few other people have blocked it off and some have even replaced it with simple brass plumbing fittings.
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/480c9...avle-temp.html
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/thre...d-ranger.1283/
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=101882

 

Thanks for the feedback, ksdunlap, good to hear!

I just finished screwing my sensor in directly, sans housing. What did you use to plug the bifurcated line and did you cut it back or strap it somehow? I'm going to use a clamped 2" bolt and see where I can bend/strap it until I can source a replacement lower rad hose or a suitable brass housing+modules that could accommodate both the sensor and return hose(Just replaced the lower rad hose thinking it was the cause of original leak).

I took a peek at the heater core supply housing next to it as removing this 2nd hose made access to original task easier. It is in a state of impending failure, as well. I'll be getting a brass street elbow w/ screw in barb module to fix that promptly.

 

Well TBH, I used a broken socket wrench and some hose clamps, i just left the line where it was at and made sure it wasn't in the way of anything, Amazing what some redneck engineering can fix! LOL

 

I ran across this thread looking for help, also with the same problem. The elbow had failed and drained out all of my coolant. Instead of buying the elbow and removing all of the brackets and what not's in the way. I just broke off the nipple and removed the failed elbow. I replaced it with a straight brass nipple and bought a hose with an elbow, connected it to the existing hose with a union and clamps. Redneck engineering with touch genius!

 

nice, that is probably what I should have done, however an update on my fix, the socket wrench is still holding and I have had no issues with rigging it the way I did, the only thing I have noticed since this winter is my truck takes forever to warm up, maybe when it warms up some I will try fixing it similar to the way you have.

 

I got the same problem and curiosity

 

Here is the part on Amazon it is just called a "Hot Water Connection Elbow" OEM part number is F77Z18599AA. I ended up fixing mine the right way with this same part when I replaced my water pump a few months ago. Also you cannot remove/install this part without unbolting the whole A/C compressor assembly and moving it over to make room...

 

Good information in this thread was able to diagnose my issue, search for part online and order. Took about two house to start to finish not much space to work around in. I cut maybe a 1/2 or 1/4 inch off the new unit so it would go on without removing any other parts.

1 week in an no more leaks.

 

does anyone know the thread that the elbow is. mine rusted off at the intake where it screws in and i need to rethread it but dont know what size tap to use.

 

Can you tell me the name of the pipe or hose it connects to? Mine is broke and trying to figure out what goes where