Transmission problem
#1
Transmission problem
I have a 1998 Mazda B3000. The engine seized up and I was able to put a donor engine from a 1998 Ford Ranger. I succeeded in replacing the motor, but when I put it in gear, it would not move. I had placed the torque converter to the flywheel instead on the transmission. I just pulled the transmission and there is a rod that went inside of the transmission stuck into the torque converter. So now what? The Mazda is a 4wd, 3.0 l automatic transmission with 129,000 K miles on the engine. The body is in good shape. Can I install the standard transmission and make it a 2 wheel drive? Or am I better to install a new transmission and torque converter. The truck has 182,000 miles on it and I don't want to put any more money into it than I have to. Comments or options out there? I also have parts from the donor truck for sale. Thank you.
#2
You broke the front pump(main pump) inside the transmission, need full tear down to replace it
I did the same thing 40+ years ago on my first automatic, and the same way, torque converter on the flexplate then install transmission, lol...........VERY VERY WRONG way to do it
This applies to ALL automatics
You must seat torque converter inside bellhousing and align it with input shaft splines and front pump tabs
Video here:
As you slide on the torque converter and spin it, it will slide in 2 or 3 more times until its fully inside bell housing
Then you can mount it to the engine making sure torque converter stays put.it should bolt to engine easily
I assume you had to force trans onto engine, cranking hard on the bolts until it finally "broke" and they slid together, that what mine did, and mine was a just rebuilt trans going onto my just rebuilt engine, boy I was PISSED off at the trans shop when it wouldn't go into gear.............until I found out why
No, on the manual, you would also need clutch pedal assembly, master and slave, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate
Manual rear drive line
And manual steering column if you want to get rid of auto shifter
This is assuming manual trans is for a 3.0l engine, not a 4.0l or 4cyl
I would get a used 4R44E 4WD from a 3.0l and NEW torque converter
You could call a transmission shop and ask how much to replace front pump and input shaft, free to ask
4R44E was used on Ranger 3.0ls and B3000 from 1995 to 2000
It was also used on the 4cyl but will have wrong bell housing and won't be 4WD in any case
I did the same thing 40+ years ago on my first automatic, and the same way, torque converter on the flexplate then install transmission, lol...........VERY VERY WRONG way to do it
This applies to ALL automatics
You must seat torque converter inside bellhousing and align it with input shaft splines and front pump tabs
Video here:
As you slide on the torque converter and spin it, it will slide in 2 or 3 more times until its fully inside bell housing
Then you can mount it to the engine making sure torque converter stays put.it should bolt to engine easily
I assume you had to force trans onto engine, cranking hard on the bolts until it finally "broke" and they slid together, that what mine did, and mine was a just rebuilt trans going onto my just rebuilt engine, boy I was PISSED off at the trans shop when it wouldn't go into gear.............until I found out why
No, on the manual, you would also need clutch pedal assembly, master and slave, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate
Manual rear drive line
And manual steering column if you want to get rid of auto shifter
This is assuming manual trans is for a 3.0l engine, not a 4.0l or 4cyl
I would get a used 4R44E 4WD from a 3.0l and NEW torque converter
You could call a transmission shop and ask how much to replace front pump and input shaft, free to ask
4R44E was used on Ranger 3.0ls and B3000 from 1995 to 2000
It was also used on the 4cyl but will have wrong bell housing and won't be 4WD in any case
Last edited by RonD; 06-02-2019 at 10:42 PM.
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