I just found out i have a heated pcv valve.Does it really matter.The price is double the regular one.
I never heard of a heated one before.Should i just buy the heated one ?
I don't want CEL codes showing up.
see ya,old retired guy

 

In northern states it is needed or PCV valve will get clogged up, so in Florida, no probably not needed.

Some are heated by coolant flow so you will need to couple those lines together vs blocking them off.
And you can take the clip off and pull off the top of the old PCV valve with coolant hoses attached, then take top off new PCV valve and put old one on it, so "heated PCV valve" at non-heated price.

If it is an electric heat PCV Valve then you will need to replace it with heated or you will get a code.
If you are not getting a code now then you could put non-heated PCV valve in and leave heated PCV valve plugged in, wire tie it out of the way.

 

Thats a good idea,I never thought of that.
I'll keep that in mind.
For now tho,my 3.0 is running fine.
Old retired guy

 

what code would that possibly throw if you leave the wire connector off the pcv valve?

 

P1489 PCV Heater Control Circuit
Would be a Ford specific Code

This is of course for the ELECTRIC version PCV Valve not the coolant heated version

There are a few generic Codes that Ford may use, but never recall seeing these
P053A
P053B
P053C

P0000 to P0999 are OBD2 generic, so have same meaning in all vehicles, i.e. P0123 means Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input, in a Ford, Chevy, BMW, Honda, ect.........

P1000 to P1999 are vehicle maker specific, i.e. Ford, GM, BMW, Honda, ect.................. Code P1234 can mean different things depending on the vehicle maker

The outside temp needs to be close to -32degF, freezing, before computer would activate the PCV electric heater
Not sure if it monitors it before that to set a code if it was unplugged

 

Oh okay, thank you. I was just wondering because I just changed my pcv valve that is the electric one in my 05 ranger 3.0 but I’m missing the wire that connects the pcv to the harness. I can’t seem to get rid of the codes p2196 and p2198 banks stuck in rich

 

Not sure I understand, if there is no connector for electric PCV Valve then it never came with electric PCV valve
As for the codes
Is the engine actually running Rich?
Poor MPG, smoky exhaust, blackish spark plug tips?

Those codes can be cause by high fuel pressure
Bad O2 heaters(should have others codes if its this)
Clogged exhaust, should have limited speed on highway if its this

 

it does have the electric pcv valve. You have the main harness and from the connector on the main harness to the pcv valve connector is another short wire that connects the two together. That wire was gone on my truck and I can’t buy just the wire, I have to buy the wire and pcv valve together which I didn’t know the first time.

yes the truck is running very rich. It blows out some black smoke. Its not a lot but on the ground under the muffler is all black and wet. Cleaned all the spark plugs because all 6 were carbon fouled and after 5 mins of running it was like I never cleaned them. Even the new o2 sensors are fouled. Do you think maybe the cat is clogged and is causing this? When I did a tune up the previous owner put the wrong spark plugs and half of the spark plugs had no electrodes.

 

I would test fuel pressure first, 60psi is expected, as its a good or bad test, no grey area like a blocked exhaust system
Electric fuel pumps produce 90+psi
In a 2005 Ranger there is a fuel pressure regulator(FPR) in the gas tank that reduces it down to 55-65psi
Rangers never had fuel pressure sensors, so if there is higher pressure you get Rich Codes

I also assume the O2 sensors are newer
O2 sensors are the ONLY sensors that wear out, 100k miles and/or 12 years and they run out of the chemicals that detect Oxygen in the exhaust
But to have both upstream O2 sensors fail at the same time would be long odds

Same for leaking injectors, one leaking injector would cause Rich code on one bank, not both, having two injectors leaking, one on each bank, would be very long odds
(assume Stock Injector size, people often confuse injectors and Jets(carb), larger injectors don't add more power, they cause RICH codes, and that's all they do)

On the engine is the fuel rail that feeds fuel to each injector, at the end of the rail, passenger side near firewall, is the Pressure Damper, it prevents pressure waves from building up inside the rail
On this Damper is a Vacuum Hose, its a safety thing, if Damper should fail and LEAK fuel it won't drip on the exhaust, which would be a BAD THING, lol
Check this vacuum hose for gasoline, if Damper was leaking then raw fuel would be sucked into the intake causing RICH running on BOTH banks of engine

Clogged exhaust can be test for using a Vacuum gauge, cheap tool and very good tool to have in the box
Good read here: https://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

 

The fuel pressure is good. It was at 55 psi. I shut the truck off and left it for a few hours and it had pressure drip, didn’t bleed off. The injectors I have are solid blue, I was trying to get some type of part number off them but cAnt see anything, I would have to take them out.
I will check that damper and see if there is any fuel in it

 

Is this where the damper would be in this area?

 

This pic is from a 2001 3.0l: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...3818022265.jpg

Damper is disconnected and at top of picture being held

 

is it the black cylinder shape with the two nuts on top?

i don’t think my year has a damper