Thank you, Ford, for discontinuing the fuel rail for 3.0 engines. I can't even find one used on eBay. What is the collected wisdom on best method to replace the crossover nylon fuel line between the fuel rails? This is for a 2006 Ranger. I picked up a 5/16" rubber fuel line yesterday and realized the fit was too loose — I could easily pull the hose off the barbs. Is this crossover fuel line supposed to be 5/16" as with under vehicle fuel line?

I read one solution on this forum, which looks reliable. That Push-Lok hose is available on Amazon and is rated up to 300 psi. But I was hoping to get something today.

 

Dorman has 5/16" nylon splice kits

The trick with nylon hose is to get it HOT so it gets soft, then you can insert connectors and when it cools it makes a very tight seal, which is why it needs no clamps
Soaking end in very HOT water or heat gun works, no open flame as it is a FUEL Line, lol

 

Thanks, Ron. The OEM fuel line had an outer hose around the inner nylon hose. If I use the Dorman product, what should I do for the outer hose?

 

Its for protection so just just use the rubber hose you bought already and cut it to length and use a razor to slice it length wise then put it over the splice, shouldn't need to tape it will just stay in place

 

That nylon fuel line is a BEAST to get on the barb! No luck so far. My first try I picked up the Dorman/FoMoCo branded stuff from the local auto parts store, in a repair kit. Tried boiling and hair dryer combined and ended up ruining the line with kinks. After multiple attempts all you're left with is a flared end, and this stuff doesn't shrink. Next I ordered 10 ft. of the Dorman stuff from Amazon. It is made in China and the walls seemed thinner, so I was actually hopeful that I could get it on this time. Still no luck. I boiled and boiled and couldn't get it on. All it does is flare the end. I have no idea how I'm going to fix this fuel rail.... To be continued....

 

Have a look at this video:

 

Yeah, I saw that and a handful of other videos. So far haven't found a video of someone installing nylon onto the fuel rail itself, which can't be clamped in a vice or hammered. Also, the barbed fitting on the fuel rail comes out at an angle so the method shown on this video won't work. Also, on one of the rails, the fitting is directly opposite where the fuel enters with the compression fitting, I wouldn't want to use a clamp on that and damage that too. Only thing left to try is careful application of heat gun.

 

Problem solved for posterity:
Used a heat gun on low, medium heat. First, I heated the tubing and then the fitting for about 20-30 seconds each. Then, as I began to push the tubing onto the fitting, I brought the nozzle of the heat gun close while continuing to push the nylon hose onto the fitting. To get a good grip on the hose, I used Ron's suggestion of cutting the rubber fuel line in half and placing it over the nylon hose, leaving about an inch or so exposed. Worked like a charm. Had the hose on in under a minute.

P.S. Forgot to mention be sure to remove the fuel injector closest to the fitting and completely drain the rail of all fuel.

 

Well done

 

Did this prove to be a good fix? No issues?

 

Yes, I have had no issues with this fix. I wish I could say that for the rest of the truck. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the reply. I used the dorman hose but also used two 90 degree stainless barbs to make that angle. So a short piece of dorman hose down to 90 then a straight piece over to the other 90, and a smal piece connecting that.90 to the rail. I couldn't get the hose molded enough to keep it from resting on the intake manifold. Then I did the fuel hose over top of all the pieces.
Sorry to here rest of the truck not going so good? I've put a lot of Wrench time in on this one.
Im still trying to source a good complete fuel rail. Hopefully this is a good fix until I find one.

Thanks again.

 

The door handle broke the other day, as it is made of ... plastic. I ordered a new one, but evidently, thanks to Ford engineers, I need to purchase a rivet tool to install it (and possibly drill out the old rivets). Go figure. Lol! Other than that, the engine still has a shimmey/wobble and makes that sound like marbles in a can, but no CEL ever.

 

I bought mine with a broken drivers side door handle. Came with a dorman replacement handle.
I just used a regular drill and drilled out the rivets. They are soft metal. Come right out. Just need 2 nuts and bolts.

 

Any chance you have some photos of your assembly built, and/or part numbers from wherever you bought them? I'll be trying this repair on my 19yo son's 2008 3.0L with this same lovely "this part was never supposed to fail so nobody ever made a replacement" issue... and will take any tips from those of you who have done it. I sent you a private message too if easier to reply there. Thanks in advance!

 

Digging into this crossover line fix today, with the process described above and some parts @Jpb1972 send me via PM. Am I understanding correctly the the entire intake needs to be remove and fuel rail pulled out in order to complete this fix? That's was it seems like, based on photos above which look like the fuel rail turned upside down in a wooden vice to attach the new fuel line. So far I'm following a "How to replace fuel injectors" YT video for disassembly guidance to get to the rail, which although for a 4.0L Ranger I'm thinking should be pretty similar to the 3.0L. But if there's a way to fix the crossover in place, I don't want to create extra work for myself either.

 

No way to do it intact. Not enough room.