Fine then sputters and tach goes crazy.
#1
Fine then sputters and tach goes crazy.
Hi all,
I will be cruising along just fine and then the TACH will start jumping and ENGINE starts to CUT-OUT with a ENGINE LIGHT and then poof, all good.. WTF!
Anyone ever have this issue?? I have a 92 with a 3.0 auto.
Thanks,
Brad
I will be cruising along just fine and then the TACH will start jumping and ENGINE starts to CUT-OUT with a ENGINE LIGHT and then poof, all good.. WTF!
Anyone ever have this issue?? I have a 92 with a 3.0 auto.
Thanks,
Brad
Last edited by Southern750; 07-09-2008 at 12:06 PM.
#2
#3
I'm not convinced (tranny) without more details. How often does this happen?
Does the tach rev up to the redline, THEN the sputtering (because it hit the rev limiter) starts? If so, I'd think tranny, but I'd drive it in D instead of OD for a while to see if it ever recurs in that gear.
Or does the sputtering and tach jumping happen at the same time (without the tach ever hitting redline)? Can you tell if the transmission has gone out of gear, or does the sputtering make the truck jerk (meaning the transmission is still being driven by the sputtering engine)?
See what I mean? These details matter.
First thing I'd suggest is checking all your major electrical connections and grounds. Battery terminals, alternator connection, engine to chassis ground (firewall), Battery ground, etc. Look for any loose or corroded connections. Might also help to idle it while you wiggle wiring, might find the culprit easily that way.
Oh yeah, Welcome to R-F.
Does the tach rev up to the redline, THEN the sputtering (because it hit the rev limiter) starts? If so, I'd think tranny, but I'd drive it in D instead of OD for a while to see if it ever recurs in that gear.
Or does the sputtering and tach jumping happen at the same time (without the tach ever hitting redline)? Can you tell if the transmission has gone out of gear, or does the sputtering make the truck jerk (meaning the transmission is still being driven by the sputtering engine)?
See what I mean? These details matter.
First thing I'd suggest is checking all your major electrical connections and grounds. Battery terminals, alternator connection, engine to chassis ground (firewall), Battery ground, etc. Look for any loose or corroded connections. Might also help to idle it while you wiggle wiring, might find the culprit easily that way.
Oh yeah, Welcome to R-F.
#5
More Details.
The tach will CUT-OUT completely then go to bouncing but never goes to RL.
The transsmission never slips or pops out of gear. I does this in park so I kind of eliminated the tranny. It did it coming to work this morning and it dawned on me that it does this in the rain or damp mornings. Kind of makes me wonder if somethings arcing on me.
The tach will CUT-OUT completely then go to bouncing but never goes to RL.
The transsmission never slips or pops out of gear. I does this in park so I kind of eliminated the tranny. It did it coming to work this morning and it dawned on me that it does this in the rain or damp mornings. Kind of makes me wonder if somethings arcing on me.
#6
That sounds like either bad plug wires or a bad coil/coilpack, whichever yours has.
A good test is to open the hood at night with the engine running and lightly spray the coil and plug wires with a light mist of water (windex bottle works good). If you see any arcing, there's your problem. If you don't SEE arcing, listening for the sputtering is also telltale.
I'm leaning toward coil, since your tach goes berzerk.
A good test is to open the hood at night with the engine running and lightly spray the coil and plug wires with a light mist of water (windex bottle works good). If you see any arcing, there's your problem. If you don't SEE arcing, listening for the sputtering is also telltale.
I'm leaning toward coil, since your tach goes berzerk.
#8
Well I had the exact same issue w/ my truck. It would be fine then out of now where the check engine light would come on, the power would go some where (but not to the wheels) yet the rpms would go ape ****. I would have to run red line just to keep moving or even stay running (if from a dead stop). Anyways long story made longer, I changed the injectors, plugs, wires, distributor, cleaned the fuel system yada yada...I broke down and took it to the stealership (under warrenty thank goodness) and it was a cracked head. They replaced it and now there is no problems. Runs great, now i just have to crack the other side before the warrenty is up.
Oh i have a 04 Ranger manuel w/ 3.0 2wd.
Oh i have a 04 Ranger manuel w/ 3.0 2wd.
#9
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