Fan clutch went bad -- squeal/squeak -- going electric fan
#1
Fan clutch went bad, electric fan installed (pics added)
I posted about this briefly in another topic, but I think it deserves it's own.
I've had a wierd squeak or squeal coming from under the hood. It doesn't sound quite like a belt, and it's very intermittent. It's hard to describe exactly -- but it sounds more "metallic" than a normal belt squeal.
My dealer service guys looked at it and diagnosed it as the fan clutch.
This fits since it seems my truck WHOOOSHHH's more when cold than it used to, like the fan was spinning hard all the time.
It happens mainly when cold, but it can occur anything the throttle is goosed and sometimes spontaneously at idle for no particular reason.
It's pretty expensive though -- well over $100. Get it replaced under warranty if you have the problem, don't wait. I have a $100 deductible on my warranty so I'll have it done when I feel like spending the money.
I've had a wierd squeak or squeal coming from under the hood. It doesn't sound quite like a belt, and it's very intermittent. It's hard to describe exactly -- but it sounds more "metallic" than a normal belt squeal.
My dealer service guys looked at it and diagnosed it as the fan clutch.
This fits since it seems my truck WHOOOSHHH's more when cold than it used to, like the fan was spinning hard all the time.
It happens mainly when cold, but it can occur anything the throttle is goosed and sometimes spontaneously at idle for no particular reason.
It's pretty expensive though -- well over $100. Get it replaced under warranty if you have the problem, don't wait. I have a $100 deductible on my warranty so I'll have it done when I feel like spending the money.
Last edited by n3elz; 12-13-2004 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Title change (isn't working though)
#3
#4
u can put one together for about 130
this is what zoom uses
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...part=PRM-19010
Im thinkin i might be able to get them ALOT cheaper, ill let you know, this girl that likes me, her dad owns an accessory store
Im gonna try and get one today, ill let you know
this is what zoom uses
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...part=PRM-19010
Im thinkin i might be able to get them ALOT cheaper, ill let you know, this girl that likes me, her dad owns an accessory store
Im gonna try and get one today, ill let you know
#5
Just looked again, this one would be better, also, take a look at the accessories, for the fan, cause you will need them...
14" 2950 cfm, alot more powerfull, and 14" which is common application for our rangers..
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...part=PRM-19010
EDIT: suggusted parts is what i meant... You will need the installation kit with a thermostat, which you can get at autozone, for like 25 bucks...
And im sure you have spare parts laying around for the wiring..
14" 2950 cfm, alot more powerfull, and 14" which is common application for our rangers..
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...part=PRM-19010
EDIT: suggusted parts is what i meant... You will need the installation kit with a thermostat, which you can get at autozone, for like 25 bucks...
And im sure you have spare parts laying around for the wiring..
#7
#8
#12
No. It comes under the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act.
The new clutch would NOT be under warranty, and overheating damage caused by a malfunction of the new clutch would probably not be covered. But they can't void the warranty per-se for using non-Ford parts, unless Ford provides the parts for free. That's the essence of Magnusson-Moss. They must prove that any non-Ford part contributed substantiallly to any failure to make any claim for warranty voiding.
I'm not too worred for this -- but I wouldn't replace internal engine parts this way. I'd want to do the warranty. Of course, such parts and labor costs are usuallly WAY beyond my $100 deductible. I might still in fact get them to do it. Not sure yet.
The new clutch would NOT be under warranty, and overheating damage caused by a malfunction of the new clutch would probably not be covered. But they can't void the warranty per-se for using non-Ford parts, unless Ford provides the parts for free. That's the essence of Magnusson-Moss. They must prove that any non-Ford part contributed substantiallly to any failure to make any claim for warranty voiding.
I'm not too worred for this -- but I wouldn't replace internal engine parts this way. I'd want to do the warranty. Of course, such parts and labor costs are usuallly WAY beyond my $100 deductible. I might still in fact get them to do it. Not sure yet.
#15
leo's link doesnt work. You cant copy paste from summit like that.
If you goto the top of the page anc click back one link to "permacool electric fans"
You can click on their other fans. I believe he was recommending the 14" one.
IT says UPTO 2950cfm.. that would be adequate. However I'm not sure how much it would actually suck through the radiator.
I remember back in the day when I was interested that
Wed on RPS had a good setup(cheap+worked good)
Rand
If you goto the top of the page anc click back one link to "permacool electric fans"
You can click on their other fans. I believe he was recommending the 14" one.
IT says UPTO 2950cfm.. that would be adequate. However I'm not sure how much it would actually suck through the radiator.
I remember back in the day when I was interested that
Wed on RPS had a good setup(cheap+worked good)
Rand
#16
Okay, spent $101.50 and got this 16" fan:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
and:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
What I'm going to try to do is mount that fan in the existing shroud, with some thick silicone rubber sheeting filling the 2" open space around it. Then I"ll get the air flowing through the entire radiator.
I'll post pics when I get it set up.
I believe approx 2000cfm of this system will be adequate if properly shrouded. I think many fans lose a lot of effective flow "talking to themselves" around the edge of where they are mounted.
I didn't have to pay any shipping. The first auction was confusing since it said that "buy it now" purchases had no shipping -- but it was ONLY a buy-it-now auction! I talked to the seller and ended up deducting the shipping. The thermostat kit ships free when you buy a fan, so I didn't have to pay on that either. Basically, I just went electric for the price of my deductible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
and:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
What I'm going to try to do is mount that fan in the existing shroud, with some thick silicone rubber sheeting filling the 2" open space around it. Then I"ll get the air flowing through the entire radiator.
I'll post pics when I get it set up.
I believe approx 2000cfm of this system will be adequate if properly shrouded. I think many fans lose a lot of effective flow "talking to themselves" around the edge of where they are mounted.
I didn't have to pay any shipping. The first auction was confusing since it said that "buy it now" purchases had no shipping -- but it was ONLY a buy-it-now auction! I talked to the seller and ended up deducting the shipping. The thermostat kit ships free when you buy a fan, so I didn't have to pay on that either. Basically, I just went electric for the price of my deductible.
#18
First these are not great pictures. I did most of the install at night and didn't take pictures, but here's what I ended up with. Sorry this is not going to turn into a how-to, lol.
The first picture shows the controller, which is adjustable, mounted on the bracket that holds the front clip onto the radiator bulkhead, just under the little plastic clip where the rod rests that holds up the hood (when it's NOT holding it up).
The cut orange wire is a wire for a second fan, which I'm not using. It will eventually drive an indicator on my dash somewhere. The green wire is for the A/C fan clutch and I haven't hooked it up yet.
The second and third pictures show the fan mounted in the shroud. It's hard to get a good picture of it mounted, sorry. The fan is 16" and the hole in the shroud is about 20", so I cut a large piece of 1/8" thick silicone rubber and secured it in the gap so the fan can put it's full "draw" on the entire radiator.
The last picture shows two of the 1/4-20 bolts and nylon insert locking nuts that secure the fan brackets inside the shroud. I used the brackets that came with fan, and bent and drilled them a bit to get a solid fit inside the shroud. I used the ny-lock nuts so nothing could vibrate loose. You can't torque down hard when you're mounting in plastic.
The sensor just presses into the radiator core fins, near where the upper hose joins the radiator. I have it set to come on just over 200 F, which means it doesn't come on until the thermostat is fully open, and the radiator is still not adequate to handle cooling without forced air.
The vendor on eBay I bought them from screwed up several times in shipping. They didn't actually ship the controller until Dec. 1st (3 weeks after I ordered it), but told me it was shipped sooner. I got tired of waiting, asked for a refund and got it. The controller finally arrived, and they told me to keep it, so this turned out to be a bit cheaper mod than I thought. Normally they ship the controller with the fan, but since they didn't, it got mislaid or something. I'd deal with the vendor again, since they covered their error.
The first picture shows the controller, which is adjustable, mounted on the bracket that holds the front clip onto the radiator bulkhead, just under the little plastic clip where the rod rests that holds up the hood (when it's NOT holding it up).
The cut orange wire is a wire for a second fan, which I'm not using. It will eventually drive an indicator on my dash somewhere. The green wire is for the A/C fan clutch and I haven't hooked it up yet.
The second and third pictures show the fan mounted in the shroud. It's hard to get a good picture of it mounted, sorry. The fan is 16" and the hole in the shroud is about 20", so I cut a large piece of 1/8" thick silicone rubber and secured it in the gap so the fan can put it's full "draw" on the entire radiator.
The last picture shows two of the 1/4-20 bolts and nylon insert locking nuts that secure the fan brackets inside the shroud. I used the brackets that came with fan, and bent and drilled them a bit to get a solid fit inside the shroud. I used the ny-lock nuts so nothing could vibrate loose. You can't torque down hard when you're mounting in plastic.
The sensor just presses into the radiator core fins, near where the upper hose joins the radiator. I have it set to come on just over 200 F, which means it doesn't come on until the thermostat is fully open, and the radiator is still not adequate to handle cooling without forced air.
The vendor on eBay I bought them from screwed up several times in shipping. They didn't actually ship the controller until Dec. 1st (3 weeks after I ordered it), but told me it was shipped sooner. I got tired of waiting, asked for a refund and got it. The controller finally arrived, and they told me to keep it, so this turned out to be a bit cheaper mod than I thought. Normally they ship the controller with the fan, but since they didn't, it got mislaid or something. I'd deal with the vendor again, since they covered their error.
#19
Basically the end of the fan shaft at the water pump pulley is the nut, right? After removing the mechanical fan which had the retainer nut (fan shaft) what holds the water pump pulley on? Did you add a nut? Or is that not what is holding the water pump pulley on?
btw, I still havent gotten this fan off after 2 weekends :(
i stopped by an auto shop today and they took a listen and look and he said it was the fan. Now if i could only get this darn thing off...I havent tried the chisel method yet, but the clutch fan removal set apparently requires a degree from MIT
btw, I still havent gotten this fan off after 2 weekends :(
i stopped by an auto shop today and they took a listen and look and he said it was the fan. Now if i could only get this darn thing off...I havent tried the chisel method yet, but the clutch fan removal set apparently requires a degree from MIT
#20
The water pump pully is held on by the 4 bolts the special tool fits around -- which you can't see very well...or at all.
It is totally independent of that single shaft nut you remove. Don't take the water pump pulley off because that shaft is not attached to it. It's part of the water pump and the pulley bolts over a flange on the pump shaft.
It is totally independent of that single shaft nut you remove. Don't take the water pump pulley off because that shaft is not attached to it. It's part of the water pump and the pulley bolts over a flange on the pump shaft.
#21
so is this electric fan better than a stock fan with cooling? and it should free up your engine a bit right? and im guessing its cool with water and such since you take your truck everywhere john. and you can always turn it off at will. im thinkin of gettin an electric fan but not until later on. think it is worth the investment?
#22
aw man john i wish you would have talked to ryan, he just ordered the black magic clone from proform for just $125!!!! all built tstat, and adjustable too, just wire it up!!
i have a black magic on the torino and it wont ever run hotter than 180, if i ever need a replacement it will be that proform, its the EXACT same fan
i have a black magic on the torino and it wont ever run hotter than 180, if i ever need a replacement it will be that proform, its the EXACT same fan
#24