2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Exhaust on the cheap...

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  #26  
Old 08-13-2008
RangerRunner96's Avatar
Joined: May 2008
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From: somewhere
go to meineke or something imm gonna get my catback soon and my uncle is the manager so he gave me a price of about 100
 
  #27  
Old 08-13-2008
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From: Round Rock, Tx
cheap exhaust the right way= buy a flowmaster or whatever your preference, go to shop, tell them you want it dumped, ~$50-80 later you have something that will last. No tips getting broken, bent, scratched from offroading, plus a deep sound and inconspicuous look.
 
  #28  
Old 08-13-2008
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From: Las Vegas
Get the Spintech Super Pro, I had a flow 40, hated it, straight piped, it was ok, and the spintech super pro, I love it. It sounds awesome! Def makes the v6 sound nice and deep, especially around 2500 rpm's! I def recommend it.
 
  #29  
Old 08-14-2008
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From: Boring, Oregon
made this work for about $10 worth of parts(adaptor, clamps, hanger, turndown, bolt/nut/washer/lockwasher) plus price of muff. this is on a 07 4.0L 4x4, stock 2" pipe, using a flowmaster original 40 w/ 2.5" inlet/outlet...





 
  #30  
Old 08-17-2008
Daily Driver's Avatar
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From: NH
I was ordering a Dynomax cat-back from Summit. It is only $150.00. I like the look of this though. With a system that inexpensive I may not save much unless I get the muffler cheap. I always like the dump in front of the rear wheel.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=34432
 
  #31  
Old 08-18-2008
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From: South, FL
Originally Posted by 08XLT4x4
That sounds about right. i dont understand why anyone would buy a pre fabed cat back "system" from Borla, magnaflow etc for $550+. It makes no sense.
Because they are mandrel bent piping and don't have kinks in their bends like your run of the mill muffler shop ones do. Non mandrel bent exhaust will net you a loss in power where as mandrel bent will gain power. But if your just doing dumped right after the muffler you will be ok with a muffler shop exhaust since the only bend is the tiny little bit on the turndown. An exhaust shop might not know what they are doing and use the wrong diameter tubing like they did on the exhaust I have, the piece inbetween the flex piece and the muffler is smaller then the stock tubing before the flex piece.

I should get a picture of the exhaust my truck is on it (came with it when I bought it) its got like 8 crappy bends in it after the muffler. I'm gonna have a muffler shop cut it off and weld a little turn down to the Flowmaster.

Also I'd try and go to small local owned muffler shop for the best price and probably best work, for ****s and giggles me and my friend walked in a Midas since we were at the store right next to it, told em I wanted the exhaust cut off after the muffler and a little turndown welded on. The guy told me $80, I told him he was insane and walked out, called a local muffler shop and was told $25 max.
 
  #32  
Old 08-18-2008
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From: Boring, Oregon
really.......$600 mandrell pre-bent setup vs. $300-400 tops for the non-"crinkle" bends.(compression bends? idk what they are called...the non crinkle ones). seriously...is the juice worth the squeeze?
 
  #33  
Old 08-18-2008
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From: South, FL
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
really.......$600 mandrell pre-bent setup vs. $300-400 tops for the non-"crinkle" bends.(compression bends? idk what they are called...the non crinkle ones). seriously...is the juice worth the squeeze?
On a Ranger IMO no lol. On anything that performance matters, yes.
 
  #34  
Old 08-18-2008
RedOctober's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Anchorage, AK
Wow.... do it your self or find a buddy with a welder.... $60 for a Magna flow and $15 for a 4ft. sec. of 2.50dia. pipe.. AND it was done in a half hour...
 
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