So i got in my truck after work today and found out my check engine light was on so i pulled over and checked the oil. it was fine. so i got home and checked the codes, it came up with two of them, P0340 and P1309 the first one is the camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction and the second one is a misfire caused by the first one. so my question is. does anyone know how much this may run me. hah

 

I dont know if its the same thing but i just had the cam sinchro and senser replaced in my truck the sensor asy. was 35.26 and the synchronizer was 142.06. im not sure if you could do this yourself but heres the part #s
synchronizer-- f8dz-12a362-aa
sensor asy -- 1f1z-6b288-ba
I dont know if this helps but maybe you can shoparound for the best price on the part.

 

thanks. i was kinda hoping its covered in my warrenty but i doubt it hah

 

yea i thought it would be covered in mine too and surprise it wasnt those warrentys they sell you arnt worth a f*ck

 

i nhad my synchronizer ans sensor replaced parts 180 ish laber was 75 iirc

 

Please do yourself a favor and buy a motorcraft sensor and synchro. i have had alot of problems with the dorman ones

 

You're not the only one. A lot of people on RPS and on some Taurus sites were having the Dormans fail at 10-15K miles!

A new Motorcraft one is best. Tituswillfordparts.com had the best price on Motorcraft ones when I was looking. It was about $80 I think.

 

make sure it comes with the alignment tool, the dorman one does, thats the only advantage

 

I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0L v-6.I had the chirping noise.I thought it might be the pulleys so I replaced the idler pulley and the belt tensioner assembly.Still had the chirping.The noise sounded like it was coming from under the engine.I did some research on this site and saw several people had this problem.I think it was Toreador who said put some oil in the top inside the syncronizer and if it quits chirping your cam syncronizer is the problem.OH,you need a 5.5mm socket to get the sensor bolts loose.Just buy one,lol.The location of this sucker is at the very back of the block next to the firewall.You will probably need a small ladder to see it back there.I put some oil up there and the noise stopped.Putting the oil there only tells you that your syncronizer is about to fail.Do not keep driving after you find this out.Fix this asap.
I got several quotes from some shops but ended up going to a Ford dealer.I was surprised how many crooks were out there.Two of the Ford dealers I called appeared to be crooks.Not all of the dealers are though.I was quoted $250 labor at one Ford dealer and another Ford dealer would not give me a quote.Go figure.I knew exactly what I needed:replacement of cam syncronizer.The Ford dealer charged me about $333 for instlalling the sensor and cam syncronizer and these are Motorcraft parts.Others on here said only use the Motorcraft brand.I had a $207 quote from one shop for just installing the Motorcraft cam syncronizer.There is only one bolt holding the syncronizer to the engine block.The intake does not have to be removed.This is a very simple job for a tech.Anyway,this should take not take a long time as far as labor goes.
Oh,I forgot to say that I requested to keep the old syncronizer.I was expecting to really see some teeth gone.Nope.Nada.Sucker looked good and turned ok.This is very scary.I know there have got to be a lot of these 3.0L out there just waiting to seize up.Some people on here have said the bushings are about to go out when you hear the chirp.Others have said they had no chirp and the engine just seized up.

 

Thanks for that last entry Barebull. I have just started to get a chirp on starting and have been driving around with the check engine light on with a code for the sensor. I guess I had better check it.

Is that engine seizure permanent?

 

hmmm...I'm throwing the same exact codes on my 4.0L.... I think both codes are related. I must tear into wiring because I know that's my issue.

 

yes it is, I learned out the hard way.

 

Thanks for the tip. I am looking into changing the part now. I can't figure out how to get my #1 cyl. to 10 degrees after TDC though. Or if I need the tool. I hear you don't. Just mark it and put the new one in the way the old one went out.

 

For anyone who comes across this thread in the future, here is some good info I found:
From Roach2004:
Replacing the Cam Sync - Ranger Power Sports Forum

Also I found:
Replacing the Cam Sync part 2 - Ranger Power Sports Forum

Don't buy Dorman!
Vulcan Cam Synchronizer/sensor Replacement - Taurus Car Club of America
Alert! Dorman Cam Synchronizer Assembly! - Taurus Car Club of America
Rock Auto (CPS Synchro - Dorman parts failure) - Ranger Power Sports Forum