3.0 has wicked engine flare on cold starts
#1
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 1
From: Evansville, Indiana
3.0 has wicked engine flare on cold starts
2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 Gas V6
I have this really annoying issue going on with my truck. On the initial cold start in the morning the idle will flare up to 2k RPMs and stay there. I had this going on in the fall and thought I fixed it but it's only started doing it since the outside temperature is above 40+ degrees.
In the fall of 2011 I replaced the Idle air control valve, cleaned the maf sensor, and changed the oil/filter. The issue seemed to go away. Now fast forward to last week before I changed my oil it flared up to 2k RPMs twice and I thought I hit the gas pedal both times. However, after the oil change it has been doing it every single time but it has also been warm like the 2 times it did it prior to the oil change. I checked vacuum lines and couldn't find any leaks. I believe if that was the case it would do it constantly.
Truck completely cold - it will rev up to 2k RPMs and hang there for a minute. Then the idle will back down to 1500 and sit there until the engine is warm. It's hell on the the brakes. Once the truck is warmed up (in open loop), it drives perfectly and the idles at 750rpms.
Truck Engine History
45k Shorty Headers added
45k Coolant Flush
50k Motorcraft spark plugs and wires
50k PCV changed
Engine flare started happening around 589xxk miles
59k Idle air control valve replaced, maf cleaned, and air filter changed
Motorcraft Oil Filter and Mobile 1 Synthetic Changed every 3k miles
Engine Coolant Temperature sensor? I'm stumped.
I have this really annoying issue going on with my truck. On the initial cold start in the morning the idle will flare up to 2k RPMs and stay there. I had this going on in the fall and thought I fixed it but it's only started doing it since the outside temperature is above 40+ degrees.
In the fall of 2011 I replaced the Idle air control valve, cleaned the maf sensor, and changed the oil/filter. The issue seemed to go away. Now fast forward to last week before I changed my oil it flared up to 2k RPMs twice and I thought I hit the gas pedal both times. However, after the oil change it has been doing it every single time but it has also been warm like the 2 times it did it prior to the oil change. I checked vacuum lines and couldn't find any leaks. I believe if that was the case it would do it constantly.
Truck completely cold - it will rev up to 2k RPMs and hang there for a minute. Then the idle will back down to 1500 and sit there until the engine is warm. It's hell on the the brakes. Once the truck is warmed up (in open loop), it drives perfectly and the idles at 750rpms.
Truck Engine History
45k Shorty Headers added
45k Coolant Flush
50k Motorcraft spark plugs and wires
50k PCV changed
Engine flare started happening around 589xxk miles
59k Idle air control valve replaced, maf cleaned, and air filter changed
Motorcraft Oil Filter and Mobile 1 Synthetic Changed every 3k miles
Engine Coolant Temperature sensor? I'm stumped.
Last edited by Hillyard; 03-02-2012 at 06:53 AM.
#2
#3
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 1
From: Evansville, Indiana
Where did you find your leak at? It may be a common area on Rangers.
#4
well I had a slit in my air intake hose, like a razor blade cut and finding that brought revs down 400 at least and the other major one was a wire from my IAC got pinched between the throttle body and air intake tube and caused a gap in the seal between tube and plenum and pulling that wire out brought me back to normal.
those wont help you but goes to show, find the leak, solve the problem.
those wont help you but goes to show, find the leak, solve the problem.
#7
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 1
From: Evansville, Indiana
The flare ups were happening prior to the IAC module.
I still haven't been able to locate a leak...
#8
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 1
From: Evansville, Indiana
I worked on it after work and did the following.
Replaced the plastic vacuum line that runs the entire engine bay (I never did like the way Ford did that)
Put a gates hose clamp on the elbow that comes off the manifold
Cleaned out the PCV valve - Rattled just fine
Replaced the air filter
Cleaned the MAF with contact cleaner
Inspected every vacuum line and they all appeared to be intact
Reset the computer
One of these things must have fixed the issue because now the cold start idle is back to normal. I will see in the morning.
Replaced the plastic vacuum line that runs the entire engine bay (I never did like the way Ford did that)
Put a gates hose clamp on the elbow that comes off the manifold
Cleaned out the PCV valve - Rattled just fine
Replaced the air filter
Cleaned the MAF with contact cleaner
Inspected every vacuum line and they all appeared to be intact
Reset the computer
One of these things must have fixed the issue because now the cold start idle is back to normal. I will see in the morning.
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