I have an 05 ranger 3.0 auto 2wd ca emission truck. It’s throw out code p2196, p2196 pd, p2198, and p2198 pd. Both banks stuck running rich. I changed the o2 sensors both upstream. Spark were black so I changed them out with the wires. Changed the maf sensor. I checked all the vacuum lines, checked the fuel pressure 54 psi. Changed the pcv valve out. Tps sensor is new. Truck runs rough. Brand new spark plugs are black, exhaust blows out black smoke. New o2 sensor was black. Hasn’t even ram more than an hour or so.

 

Welcome to the forum

And no O2 Heater codes

How long have you owned the Ranger and was this a sudden thing or has it been getting worse over last few months?

And no one changed over to "bigger injectors"?

Does it run OK on cold start?
Computer uses tables in memory and not O2 sensors for the first few minutes after cold start

Try unplugging MAF sensor see if engine runs better or worse

Rich codes mean the computer has reduced the fuel to -25% of what it calculated and O2s are still showing to little oxygen in the exhaust

If you have a OBD2 reader check STFT(short term fuel trims)

Try this test for leaking injectors
Key on engine off
Press gas pedal down to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN all the way
Try to start engine
It should NOT start, it should NOT fire at all
If should just spin until you stop cranking it or you release the gas pedal

 

I just got it about month ago, how would I know if the fuel injector are upgraded? I’ll have to bug my neighbor for his live data scanner. I will try the gas Pedro thing right now I did unplug the maf and it idles down.
also when we did do the live data, it stays in open loop most of the time. It’ll go closed and then idle rough then to open loop
I did the gas pedal and it starts right up. I did it twice and it started both times no hesitation

 

You can get a ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 reader for $15, works on any vehicle sold in North American since 1996, so not a Ranger thing or even a Ford thing, ANY vehicle

I am assuming you have a smartphone, APPs are free or $5 for Torque Pro
Good tool to have

You can't tell if previous owner DOWNGRADED by putting in bigger injectors, people often think injectors are like Jets on a carb, they are not, and in any case if you put in larger Jets you can get the same effect, engine running too Rich

When you get the scanner check engine temp, should go into Closed loop above 140degF, normal operating temp will be 185-195degF
If temp on scanner is not going above 140deg then change ECT sensor, computer could be stuck in Choke Mode because ECT sensor has failed

Choke means Rich running and High idle, which all gasoline engines need when cold, but only for a few minutes

Do the gas pedal test

 

yeah I already changed out that sensor too. I did do the gas pedal test. I pushed in the gas pedal all the way down, put the key in the ignition, and it started right up like it usually does. I did it twice and both times it started. Would a leaky injector hold pressure in the fuel rail when engine is off? What’s weird is when I push down on the brake and release it, the engine revs up a couple hundred rpms in park.



also the oil does seem to be thinning. It also does smell like fuel. Checked coolant and it seems normal, nothing mixed in it. When the truck is running you can smell the gas really bad. I have a black spot in my driveway from the trucks exhaust

 

I see you checked the vacuum lines for air leaks but have you checked the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for gas?

 

where is that vaccum line located? Is it the one that goes into purge valve?

 

Do this
Key off
Use a stick against the seat to press down gas pedal all the way
Open the hood and see if you can open the throttle manually a bit more, if so do the "Ranger throttle cable mod", google it, very easy fix for a stretched throttle cable

If throttle sensor is not showing WOT(wide open throttle) then the gas pedal test won't work
If throttle was at WOT using stick then YES, you have leaking injectors or bad PCM(computer)

If its the injectors then you are correct, system wouldn't hold fuel pressure with key off, should hold above 30psi for MONTHS
If its the PCM then it may hold pressure, key off, turn key on and see if pressure starts to drop, should go up, at first, but leave key on, engine off, and see if it starts to drop

You can rent NOID lights, these hook up to fuel injector wires and will pulse a light each time computer Grounds that injector
Injectors all get 12volts with key on, red wire, the other wire at each injector runs back to the PCM, it grounds that wire to open the injector, the ground only lasts milliseconds so volt meter could never see it, that's why you need to use a NOID light to see the ground pulse
If any of these injector ground wires were shorted to ground.............well, injector opens with key on

 

I’ll do that test when I get home.

I put a new tps sensor. When I plugged it in, it read 7% and when I put it in the throttle, it read 19%. I don’t know if it’s suppose to do that. I checked it with three different sensors.

 

Yes, that is correct
Throttle sensor is a 5volt sensor like most are
With throttle closed(key on) the sensor should send just under 1volt back to computer, 0.69v to 0.99v is spec
At wide open throttle the sensor sends 4.5v to 4.6v to computer

1 volt is 20% of 5volts, so just under 20% is correct reading for closed throttle, generally its 17% to 19%
4.5v is 90% of 5volts, so 90% to 92% would be correct for WOT
It should never read 0% or 100%, sensor would be bad if it showed either

If WOT is showing under 90% then throttle cable has stretched so add the zip ties

 

So I did what you said for the throttle cable test and with the gas pedal pushed down I can’t open any further by hand. Does mean it’s a bad pcm?

 

That or leaking injectors

 

I did the pressure test. It held the psi up for over a few hours. I think I’ll have to order a pcm or see I can find someone to test it

 

Yes, I can't see any other choice at this point

"Clear Flooded Engine Routine" is built into all Fuel Injection Computers, not a Ford thing
Press gas pedal down to the floor at 0RPMs and computer will shut off injector pulses, so you can crank engine over to dry it out

Yours is not responding that way so an issue with injector system circuit/software

 

If the computer fixes it, I will let you guys know. Thank you all for the help!

 

So I finally got the computer and codes popped up again. Same 4 codes. I have no idea what it can be

 

That's not the correct way to test.

Key in ignition, turn to RUN position.

While the key is in the RUN position, Push and HOLD the gas pedal to the floor.

While holding the gas pedal to the floor, Turn key from RUN directly to START, it should not start.

 

so I did it the correct way and it did not turn on, it just cranked over

also the truck does surge at idle. For the most part it’ll stay around 750rpm and out of no we’re it’ll surge down but pick back up to 750 rpms

 

So I want over the scanner
engine coolant is stuck at 140 degrees (drove the truck for about 10 mins and idled for about 10 15 mins checking vacuum)
LT FTRM1 and 2 is -18.8 %
ST FTRM1 and 2 is -23.5%
Fuel sys 1 closed
O2s11 .870v
o2s12 .835v
ST FTRM12 99.2%
O2S21 .865v
ST FTRM12 -23.5%
O2S22 .840v
ST FTRM22 99.2%

 

Change ECT sensor, you are stuck in CHOKE mode

 

I’ve changed that sensor already. Is it possible I have a bad connector

 

The 2 wire sensor with the grey/red wire, that's a 5volt sensor only used but computer

The other temp SENDER has a red/white wire, uses 12volts, and only used for dash board temp gauge

ECT sensor should show outside temp when engine is cold, key on engine off, then shows temp going up to about 180-190 deg after 5 to 8 minutes of engine running
If that's not happening then new sensor is bad, or computer's ECT circuit is
Not parts are tested any more before being boxed and sent out, testing costs ALOT of money these days, so "new" doesn't mean "it works", new means NEVER TESTED

I wouldn't think wires but its possible, have a look in connector for corrosion
test the grey/red wire with key on engine off, and unplugged from sensor, should show 5volts, 4.9-5.1 is fine

All sensors share this grey-red wire so there would be other codes if it wasn't 5volts, but could just be issue at this one sensor

 

so I changed the sensor and for the live data it’s reaching over 180 now but the codes came back on. It surged a couple times then died. It’s not running nearly as rough as it was. Do you think I need to clean the spark plugs and o2 sensor since they have fouling?

MIL STATUS OFF
ABSLT TPS 19.2%
ENG SPEED 720 rpm
CALC LOAD 30.9%
MAF 4.26 GR/SEC
COOLANT 183 degree
IAT 96 degree
IGN ADVANCE 17.0 deg
ST FTRM1 -23.5 %
LT FTRM1 -21.1%
ST FTRM2 -23.5%
LT FTRM2 -21.1%
FUEL SYS1 CLSD
FUEL SYS2 N/A
O2S11 .865v
O2S12 .885v
ST FTRM12 99.2%
ST FTRM22 99.2%

 

You MAF sensor is reading HIGH, 3.0l engine should be 3.2 to 3.4gr/sec at 720RPM, basic rule of thumb is engine displacement(3l) = Gram/second at 500rpm, so 3gr/sec
4.2gr/sec seems high, which would cause computer to calculate longer injector open time so it would have to cut back the open time by about 25%

Unplug the MAF and see what fuel trims do

Yes, clean spark plug tips
You can check to see if O2s holes are fouled, then clean with soft bristle brush

 

Will do that. I took the intake off to look at the injectors and they look like cheap ones from Amazon, light blue and no markings on them. I don’t if that can be a reason too.

also I did t have the maf plugged in and it threw a code so I cleared and plugged it in and ram the truck for another 15 mins. Then that’s when o2 codes came back on