I ran test started engine and got 65 psi so what next?

 

Yes, looks like a tire's air valve because that's what it is, a schrader valve

 

I ran test started engine and got 65 psi so what next? Clean MAF sensor?

 

And did you hold RPMs high to see if it started to drop?

 

**** I didnt and I returned it too ):

 

I think my pressure is ok. I looked in the MAF sensor air filter and found a little dust and a few leaves but i dont think that would cause this? But I will look at the MAF sensor myself and maybe clean it. If it doesnt work then i might have a mechanic look for vacuum leaks.

 

Hello, I took it to a mechanic he said it was a bad PCV valve. He said 600 ******* dollars? He said he wanted to clean my intake valves? Is that necessary? Can't i just spray that valve cleaner into the brake booster vacuum hose and be good? Do i need to clean the intake valve at all when replacing the pcv valve?

 

2002 3.0l V6 Ranger PCV Valve is easy to change and not an expensive part, so odd amount to charge for that

2.3l 4cyl Ranger costs a bit more but not that much

"Clean the intake valves", lmao, wrong mechanic, but I am sure he makes a good living

Just add a can of Seafoam to gas tank to clean fuel system AND intake valves
Don't spray or pour stuff into a running engine, bad idea at the best of times

 

So I replaced the PCV valve ok. I used some intake valve cleaner while the engine was running followed the directions and let it sit for an hour then drove for 10 minutes. Now im back home and I heard bubbling from radiator coolant. And I research and it says common reason a BLOWN HEAD GASKET!!!! WHAT THE ****!!!!!! ):

 

Wait until engine cools off and remove radiator cap
Top up radiator with WATER
Start engine
If coolant level drops add more water
Wait
If coolant starts to over flow after 15-30seconds then you do most likely have a blown head gasket
Engine is pumping AIR(exhaust) into the cooling system thru a crack in the head or a bad head gasket
Shut off engine
sniff the rad cap opening if it smells like exhaust then thats for sure the problem

 

I opened my coolant cap a little and the radiator coolant bubbled then i stopped and tightened back. Is that bad? Should I open the cap again to let the bubbles come in the coolant box?

 

Was that with a cold engine ?

 

No the engine Is still hot from me driving like an hour ago. Also it is bubbling in the radiator fluid box not the cap if that means something.

 

My radiator coolant looks like literal liquid chocolate do i need to flush and replace or just let out old fluid and put new in? My owners manual says use motorcraft premium engine coolant VC-4-A which is green And i cant find that exact part number coolant, any recommendation? It also says motorcraft premium gold engine coolant VC-7-A (yellow colored) depending on original fluid used? IDK what the original fluid used was doesnt say it on radiator reservoir or anything. Also can find VC-4-A at all anywhere. HELP

 

If you are doing a complete flush and fill, it doesn't matter, which you will have to do because

But first you'll have to figure out how oil is getting into coolant before wasting time and money on coolant.

 

What you mean how oil is getting in coolant? I don't think the dumbass who owned this vehicle before me did anything. I don't think they ever changed any fluids. Could I just put any coolant in my car because i have an old 2002 ford ranger edge with a v6 3.0?

 

You said liquid chocolate, I assumed wrong.


Yes, if you are doing a complete flush, use what ever coolant you want.

 

The flush and replacement was good. Now all I need to do is replace upper bank o2 sensor and that bitch is hard to get to. After that my lean codes should go away.

 

Also is it normal for an o2 sensor to go from lean to rich constantly? That's what the bank 1 sensor 1 is showing on the scanner

 

Upstream O2s should change voltage rapidly, .2 to .8 volts

Look at STFT(short term fuel trim) for Bank 1 thats an average of what computer is seeing from O2 sensor on that bank, -5 to +5 STFT is normal range, but not at idle, O2 is not used at idle

 

The sensors look good in normal range except bank 1 sensor 1 just says lean then rich pretty fast not voltage. And short term fuel trim is -2 to 2 and long term is max at 30 these numbers are at idle.

 

I didnt know it was normal to go from rich and lean fast. So I guess i need to check the others. But idk how to see which one is bad if they are. They auto repair shop said if replacing the pcv valve didnt fix the codes then my o2 sensors are prolly fucked or atleast one of them.

 

You change upstream O2s at the same time, but in your case I would change all 3

They last 125k miles or 10-12 years, they run out of chemicals, so they don't "break", they just wear out, like a battery does after 6 years or so

 

**** man. I've spent so much money on this truck trying to fix everything I payed 60$ for the o2 sensor I have now. Now i have to replace all three. I'm running out of money just buying random **** hoping it will fix my issue. ): I'm not taking any of my anger out on you just angry in general about the situation. If replacing the o2's dont work im out of ideas and money.

 

Is there a way to check these o2 sensors? to make sure they work before going and buying more? What would be next thing to check if o2's aren't bad?