2.3L & 2.5L I4 Tech General discussion of 2.3L and 2.5L I4 Ford Ranger engines.

Tune up Question...

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  #1  
Old 01-27-2010
TNRanger23's Avatar
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Tune up Question...

Hey guys,

I haven't been the most "hands on" type of person when it comes to cars so far in my life but decided about a month ago when I was somewhat broke, my wifes dodge neon started misfiring, and all the local shops quoted $150 for a tune up that it was time for me to start doing tune ups and oil changes, ect, ect on my own.

The tune up on her car went fine, finished in 20 minutes and at a cost of roughly $50.

Okay so about 3 weeks ago my truck started misfiring, shaking, and what-not and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and they hooked it up and yes, it needed a tune up. I bought the plugs, wires, ect, ect and got home, opened up the hood, pulled the wires and found that all four plug wells were full, to the top with water.

I drained the water with a squirt bottle nozzle, let it dry, then proceeded to try to loosen the plugs. They were stuck. Couldn't budge em at all.

So, at the advice of the guys at Autozone I sprayed WD40 into the wells and let it sit. Didn't work.

Cleaned it up and then sprayed it down with PB Blaster and same results.

The plugs are stuck. I'm not sure if they're rusted in or whatever but it almost feels like the last guy to do a tuneup on this truck didn't use anti-seize and put the damn things in with an impact wrench.

I drained the water, put new wires on, and reset the check engine code and haven't had a problem since but would still like to do a tune up. I don't want to twist too hard on the damn things and break them or even worse strip the threads in the engine.

If I take it to a mechanic and he strips the threads in the engine is he liable or is something whre the mechanic can turn around and say something to the effect of " oh well " ?

Any advice ? Tips ? Tricks ?

Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 01-27-2010
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Good chance the plugs are just rusted in place, especially if their was water sitting in them. Now my advice is a little hairy but I would take it some place to have the plugs changed, you can even have them install the ones you already purchased. If they break the plugs off in the head they are usually liable, if you break the plug off in the head you are going to have some big problems and a large repair bill. The only other thing I would try is continue to spray the plugs with PB blaster and drive the truck hard, warm it up good, and try and crack the plugs loose while its hot.
 
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Old 01-27-2010
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Originally Posted by My91Ranger
Good chance the plugs are just rusted in place, especially if their was water sitting in them. Now my advice is a little hairy but I would take it some place to have the plugs changed, you can even have them install the ones you already purchased. If they break the plugs off in the head they are usually liable, if you break the plug off in the head you are going to have some big problems and a large repair bill. The only other thing I would try is continue to spray the plugs with PB blaster and drive the truck hard, warm it up good, and try and crack the plugs loose while its hot.
Good advice, Thank you.

I think I'll give the PB Blaster another try and if it fails I'll have no choice but to get it done by a shop.
 
  #4  
Old 01-27-2010
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Doesn't changing the plugs while the engine is hot usually end up with stripped threads? For Aluminum heads anyway?
 
  #5  
Old 01-27-2010
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I'm not sure for the aluminum heads. I have only dealt with cast heads. By heating up the casts heads it should work similar to heating a bolt with a torch and help loosen the bond between the two mating surfaces as well as give the PB Blaster more of a chance to penetrate the threads.
 
  #6  
Old 01-27-2010
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well atleast your plugs were in. the driver side rear ones werent even screwed in all the way when i went to do mine so i was running on like 3 cylinders
 
  #7  
Old 01-28-2010
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My guess would be too spray some kinda penitrating fluid like the PB Blaster and let it sit over night and then try it. Then take it in and let a garage try. Good luck!!!
 
  #8  
Old 01-28-2010
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From: merced, ca
x2 on taking it somewhere and letting them do it. they will get them off and if they do break it it is on them!!! may cost a lil $ but the possible breakage is not on you then
 
  #9  
Old 01-28-2010
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From: Chicago, Ill
If you can, attempt a breaker bar on the end of the socket wrench. Get someone to hold the extension bar and spark plug socket as straight as possible and apply a very slow pull on the breaker bar.
It won't take much with the add torque so do it very slowly. Do a few days of penetrating oil in the plug valley. Good Luck...
 
  #10  
Old 01-29-2010
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From: Tulsa, OK
Take it for what it's worth, but a machine shop tech once told me that the next time I have a spark plug problem...try soaking the threads with iodine.
 
  #11  
Old 01-29-2010
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Originally Posted by 04_xlt_4.0_4x4
x2 on taking it somewhere and letting them do it. they will get them off and if they do break it it is on them!!! may cost a lil $ but the possible breakage is not on you then
If they want to be nice, I'd say it would be "on them" but if they see evidence of excess rust...maybe not. A smart shop owner would get a signed disclaimer saying that "Due to circumstances..." before any work is done. Negligence, like dropping a screw down an open spark plug hole or forgetting to fill engine with oil, is a different story. JMO, but I hope it works out okay and the plug doesn't break or strip in the head.
 

Last edited by BlutoBodine; 01-29-2010 at 09:11 AM.
  #12  
Old 01-29-2010
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Thanks for the replies, Not sure what I'm going to do at this point but I'm sure something will get done.

Thanks again.
 
  #13  
Old 02-26-2010
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I just saw this post earlier
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f97/be...resting-94912/

That Kroil is something! we use on our aircraft and it is impressive. In addition to soaking the plugs you could also use heat to gain an advantage. Run the engine to let it heat up apply penetrating fluid several times over several heat cycles. If you put the spark plug socket into the freezer or pack it in dry ice and then quickly try to use it it could cool the pulg vs the hotter cyl head they may pull apart a little bit. That method is how they remove valve seats from some cylinder heads. I'm wondering about this atf-acetone homebrew?
 
  #14  
Old 03-03-2010
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I never managed to get to a shop for a tune-up, drained the water, replaced the wires, and have since driven to Texas with no problems.

I need to get it done though.
 
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