Hi All,
I'm in the process of installing a new timing belt and it's been a real pain the 4th P.O.C. up to this point.
I just installed the belt after lining up all the marks, making sure the valves were closed, and the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, cyl 1.
This is after fighting with the old tensioner after the new one broke while installing it.( the spring post pulled out of it as I put leverage on the tensioner to put the small bolt in the tension slot).
So I had to reinstall the old tensioner, which will hopefully last longer than that new one would have.
Anyway, now I have the belt on all the pulleys but I'm not sure where I should line up the belt.
Should it be centered on each pulley, flush with the front each one, or flush with the back of each pulley?
Since the original belt snapped I have nothing to reference and I haven't found any videos that specify.

 

The belt will align itself as it spins, the crank has the only "belt guide", looks like a large washer, goes on next to the gear, and that prevents the belt from working its way off the front of the gears, the rear of the belt cover prevents it from going too far back

 

Thanks Ron,
I noticed that right after I posted this, it self aligned as I spun it 2 full rotations to recheck the timing marks.
I have the cover back on, now it's just a matter of reinstalling everything else.
This is my first time doing a timing belt on this engine so hopefully I have everything where it needs to be when I'm done.

 

I've been thinking about the timing belt tensioner bolts since I put the timing cover on last night.
I just tightened them both down good, but now I'm not sure if that's right or not.
Shouldn't the adjusting bolt be loose enough so the tensioner can adjust to the belt stretching over time?
If I have both bolts locked down, the tensioner is also locked in place, right?
I found these torque specs on "It Still Runs" but I don't know if they're accurate:
Adjusting Bolt- 27 ft-lbs
Pivot Bolt- 35 ft-lbs
And the crank pully bolt- 115 ft-lbs.
Are these accurate?
Here's the link-
https://itstillruns.com/change-timin...t-4744187.html
It has escort in the title but talks about the Ranger in the article.
Regarding the crank pulley bolt:
What's the best way to lock the engine so I get a good torque reading on the bolt?
I have it in gear, all 4 wheels on the ground but of course the serpentine belt is still off.
I really don't want to remove the starter if I don't have to. I just watched a video where the guy filled number 1 cylinder with rope but I'm not too keen on that.
To break it loose I put my breaker bar against the frame and "bumped" the engine over. If I reverse the direction it will tighten, but not to torque spec; and I run the risk of snapping it off or other damage.

To recap:
Are the 3 torque specs correct?
If not, what are they?
How to lock the engine to get a good torque on the crank pulley bolt?
Any help with these questions is much appreciated.

 

Tensioner will self adjust because of engine vibrations and strong spring, its just bolted to a smooth surface so has no real "grip" it's really held in place by the timing belt, lol, the bolts just keep it from falling off

 

Quick question:
Is the timing belt cover bolt ( screws into the timing belt pivot bolt, the one with the spring ) the same length as the valve cover bolts?
They're the same size and thread pitch, But are they the same length?
I'd hate to pull each one, especially the back bolts, to check the length but if no one knows the answer that's what I'll have to do.

 

I found the timing cover bolt, in the valve cover.
For future reference- You can't really mistake it for one of the valve cover bolts, and yet, I did. It was dark out but it even feels different.
Here's a couple pics in case someone else happens to want to know the difference.

T.C. Bolt on the left, both pics.



I used my grab tool to thread all the bolts into the valve Cover to avoid playing hide-n-seek when they drop out of the socket. It even worked on the rear intake side bolt.

 

I got the Ranger running this past Saturday (5/21). It does run and I found no coolant or oil leaks, but there is a vacuum leak somewhere. It revs extremely high between gears
and threw the following codes:
P1506- IAC valve duty cycle higher than expected
P1000- On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete.
It ran a bit rough although it wasn't overly noticeable.
I think the leak might be at the vacuum pipe attached to the bottom of the throttle body since no matter what I tried I could only get the
hose about half way on. It's currently not engaged against the lip on the pipe so that's probably what's leaking.
I ordered a smoke machine kit so hopefully I'll find the leak, wherever it is, once the machine gets delivered.

 

Update:
Timing belt:
Since the timing belt snapped back in March I've replaced it with a new Gates timing belt kit ;part# 2522760 from NAPA Auto. I just couldn't find an actual Motorcraft kit anywhere.
The belt seemed to be good quality but the belt tensioner broke during installation( The metal dowel that the end of the tension spring rests on pulled out while under tension to get the pivot bolt in) causing the tensioner to snap back and break the inner timing cover, that was fun.
I ended up reusing the original Motorcraft tensioner and returned the new, now broken Gates tensioner for a refund. NAPA was very good about it.
While I had things torn apart I replaced the spark plugs/wires, thermostat, water pump, radiator upper and lower hoses, valve cover gasket, and throttle body gasket after removing and cleaning the throttle body.
I also replaced the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulleys since it seemed like a good time to do it.
There's probably a few more parts I just can't think of at the moment.

Due to ongoing health and money issues I didn't actually get it running until May 21st. It started right up and had no visible leaks. Success! Well, mostly.
It idled nicely after a full warmup but when I took it for the first test drive it would rev very high between gears and at stop signs. Without a tach I can't say for sure how high, but it was high enough to make it surge forward as I let the clutch out, and while trying to slow down at stop signs.
As I posted previously, I was under the impression I had a vacuum leak but after testing with a smoke machine I found no leaks anywhere. Good news, but it didn't solve my issue.
The smoke machine worked great, here's a link in case anyone is looking for one- https://www.autolinepro.com/collecti...-smoke-machine
Okay, since a I couldn't find a vacuum leak, I took it to a guy at a local garage and had him drive it. We both agreed that since the rpms would drop if the accelerator was tapped, it probably wasn't a vacuum leak, but maybe a sticking throttle cable.

After thinking about it for awhile I decided to put the new throttle cable on the other day, which I've had for quite some time. I just kept putting it off since my old frame doesn't bend like it used to and tends to hurt more than I like when I do things like that now; but I sucked it up, removed the driver seat, and got it done.
There was an immediate improvement after installing the new cable. Although the old one didn't seem to be bound up at all after removal, it could have been dry enough under the tight bend when mounted that is was hanging up a bit.
I also hooked up my Blue Driver scan tool, unhooked the IAC valve with the engine running and adjusted the Anti Diesel screw until the engine idled at ~ 800-870, I can't remember which, and reconnected the IAC.
Since the throttle body was extremely dirty and gunked up, I figure a previous owner cranked up the anti diesel screw to compensate, rather than clean the throttle body.
It still revs fairly high between gears and when I try to stop, but it's much better than it was.

I think Ron D has posted in the past that these 4 cylinder engines are designed to rev high between gears to prevent stalling, or something to that effect.
If this is true, I wish there was a way to shut that "feature" off.
Anyway, is this normal behavior?
I haven't kept my Blue Driver hooked up while driving to get an RPM reading since I don't like watching my phone while I drive.
And right now I don't have anyone that could ride with me that would understand what they would be looking at lol.
If all else fails, I'll have my 84 year old Mom ride shotgun. She was married to a mechanic, I think it's worth a shot.

Also:
Right after the initial startup the A/C clutch started cycling on and off at regular intervals ( app. every 10 seconds or so) for about 10 minutes even with the A/C off.
Could that be the ECM relearning/resetting various systems and parameters?
I'm also wondering if that's why the rpms are high when I shift, maybe it's still building a new set of low/mid/high range rpm parameters after all the work I did?
How long does that normally take?
When I run the A/C now, the clutch doesn't seem to stay engaged, but cycles on and off, and the air isn't as cool as it was previously.
But that could be due to a small leak that may have developed when I had the system hanging all over the engine compartment while changing the timing belt.

Note: I remember now that I did have the Heat on while burping the cooling system when I first started it up, could that be why the A/C clutch was cycling? I recently read that the clutch will cycle in... Defrost, and another Heat setting, is this true?

 

Since after driving for awhile the CEL came back on and the code P1506 reappeared I warmed up the engine and did the following:
Unplugged the IAC again and backed off the anti diesel screw until it was no longer contacting the throttle linkage.
Tested the 2 pin IAC connector for battery voltage- 12.3V shown.

The engine still idled at ~870 to 940 rpm with the IAC disconnected and the A.D screw not in play. I don't remember the exact numbers since the Blue Driver doesn't seem to save Live Data once it's disconnected from the vehicle, I thought it did but apparently I was wrong.
The IAC is a new Hitachi model # ABV0016 installed this year with less than 1,000 miles on it.
That doesn't mean it's not bad since new parts can fail, but the rpms do drop when I disconnect it, leading me to once again suspect a vacuum leak somewhere.
I didn't find a leak with my new smoke machine the first time I hooked it up. I might try it again once I have a compressor. I borrowed one for the initial test.
My Questions-
1) Does this sound like a vacuum leak?
2) Since the 02 sensors are probably original, would they either cause, or contribute to this problem?
3) Would the DPFE have something to do with it? It too looks original and I don't know anything about the DPFE.
I really could use some input on this, I'd like to get this truck running right and so far it doesn't seem like it's going to happen
Thank you in advance for any help.

 

If engine is warmed up and IAC Valve is unplugged idle should be 500-600rpm, barely running
If anti-diesel screw is backed off then higher idle can be an air leak

O2 sensor could cause it but not likely, if over 12 years old replace it/them in any case MPG WILL go up

With IAC valve still unplugged pull off 1 vacuum hose from the intake at a time and plug the port with finger, if idle drops you found a leak
Start with PCV hose and then power brake booster hose


DPFE is the feedback sensor for EGR system, adds exhaust gases to intake to lower cylinder temps
It has two hoses hooked to Exhaust, so they are not vacuum hoses
One hose is closer to EGR valve than the other hose, when EGR is closed both hoses have the same pressure, when EGR valve is opened, the closer hose has a higher pressure drop
DPFE stands for Differential Pressure FEedback, or Delta Pressure FEedback
The computer can tell how much exhaust gas is being added to intake by watching the pressure difference between the two hoses

Exhaust gases in the intake at idle would cause rough running and stalling engine
So no, DPFE sensor or hoses wouldn't cause higher idle

 

Thank you Ron.
The problem with removing vacuum hoses at the intake is, at least a couple of them are near impossible to get to with the throttle body in place.
Mainly, the ones right between the throttle body and intake. I've tried extended reach needle nose pliers, welding welpers, and every other plier set I have and still haven't gotten the short hose that attaches to the throttle body to fully seat.
I tried gently nudging with screwdrivers and that didn't work either.
But I'll give it another shot.
I initially thought that would be the leak, but there was no smoke at all from that hose or connection when I tested the system. Although, since the smoke machine reduces the pressure to 1-2 psi it's possible it's not enough pressure
to cause a static leak, but when the engine is running it could still be pulling air.
And thank you for the DPFE explanation. I had researched them last year but forgot most of the information. As I was typing the previous post I remembered it looked like the original so I threw it in when I was listing probable causes since the hoses look like vacuum lines.
The engine does run slightly rough at times, but until I get this leak/idle issue fixed it will have to wait.
Maybe since all the vacuum hoses are original I should just get some new hose at length and start replacing all of them. The small diameter plastic hoses are going to be the problem since most of the parts for the 2.5L are no longer available.
I'll see what I can find. If I do run across a decent source for them I'll post links here.

 

"With IAC valve still unplugged pull off 1 vacuum hose from the intake at a time and plug the port with finger, if idle drops you found a leak
Start with PCV hose and then power brake booster hose"
Hi Ron,
I just wanted to ask if the engine needs to be warmed up to do this test?
If possible, I would rather do it when the engine is cold to avoid getting burned.

 

Engine shouldn't be able to idle with IAC Valve unplugged if its cold
Cold gasoline engines need to be Choked, which is Rich fuel mix and high idle, without the IAC valve computer can't set a high idle

 

I understand the choke procedure, but I was hoping I could pull vacuum lines off the intake with the engine cold and still get the drop in rpms, whatever they happened to be at the time.
As stated previously, the 2.5L has several of the intake vacuum ports hidden between the throttle body and the intake itself.
I've already tried to access them before and after the timing belt replacement and it's hard to get in there.
I'll pull whichever lines I can reach and if I still haven't found the leak, I'll just get new hose, remove the throttle body again, and start replacing them all.
The only problem with that would be the small diameter, colored, hard plastic tubing used for some of the lines. I haven't been able to find any listed yet.
They were probably discontinued. Even if I could find them in a bone yard they would probably be in the same condition as mine. ( They're still in decent shape, but I'm sure they probably hardened over time since 2000)
Since I had the conduit they reside in strung up out of the way to get the valve cover in and out, one may have sprung a leak back by the firewall somewhere.
Either way, thanks for your help Ron.

 

On cold engine idling, spray some soapy water on any vacuum lines that are hard to reach, use lots, use one of those bottles with STREAM setting, engine should react to the water if its getting into the intake
And worst case, engine is cleaner, not ON FIRE, like using combustible sprays, lol

 

Lol. yea, an engine fire is never a good time. It used to happen a lot with carbureted engines. I've seen more than a few back in the day.

I'll try the soapy water.
But another possible issue might be the throttle butterfly valve coating being removed when I cleaned it, allowing air to go around it now.
Also, I never cleared the PCM KAM and did a relearn procedure after I did all the work, so maybe that's part of the problem.

 

Unhook battery for 5 min, KAM will be dumped

 

Most of the procedures I've seen recommend disconnecting the Negative cable only, putting something non conductive over the Negative post( a rag), and jumping the Positive and Negative posts together for app. 10 minutes.
Unfortunately I haven't found a relearn procedure specific to a 2000 Ranger 2.5L with manual transmission.
Most I've found are for other Ford vehicles with different engines and automatic transmissions, or vehicles not made by Ford..
The closest I've managed to find is in a post by V8Level II, in this thread by JakeHO5 back in 2008-

https://www.ranger-forums.com/4-0l-o...g-steps-72686/

He does mention manual transmissions though:
"-Trucks with manual transmissions only have 2 load modes to learn:

• Neutral w/o A/C
• Neutral w/ A/C"

Would his procedure work with my 2000 2.5L/ 5 speed manual?

 

A question not related to the relearn procedure:
While testing the vacuum system with the smoke machine I found no smoke leaking from any of the vacuum lines, but there was a significant amount of smoke coming from the top of the air filter box.
Since the air box lid is above the air filter, should that be an air tight seal? I'm going to look at it in a bit, I can't remember if there is a seal on the airbox lid or not.
If that is supposed to be sealed, then it's possible unmetered air is being pulled into the intake, causing a high idle, right? Or would it mean that some air is just unfiltered(still not good)?
Like I said, I have to look at it again; I don't remember where the air actually comes into the air filter box or enters the intake snorkel in relation to the filter.
So does the air filter box lid need to have a good seal?

 

You can disconnect either battery cable and touch it to the other battery cable, but only need 10 seconds to drain all the capacitors in the vehicle, not sure why any one would say 10 min, maybe a misprint, if you unhook battery for 5min KAM will be cleared

Never touch battery posts together, that would be a bad thing, lol
But if the battery CABLE is disconnected it can be put against the other battery cable, even if its still hooked up, to drain all voltage from the vehicles systems, i.e. all the capacitors

Capacitors are like temp batteries, they have lots of uses but are used in memory circuits to hold data if power is cut temporarily, under 5 min
By touching the two battery cables together(without battery) the capacitors are drained of any reserve power, so KAM is cleared

When you replace any parts on the engine you should clear KAM so computer can look for changes
There are no re-learn procedures unless you are in a hurry to pass a smog test

When you clear KAM and restart computer/engine code P1000 can be set, usually doesn't turn on CEL
P1000 means emission systems testing needs to be done
Because you just cleared past test results
Computer will run the tests over the next few weeks and if systems pass then P1000 will go away, if a system doesn't pass after a few attempts then computer will set a hard code for that system and turn on CEL

Here are the tests that need to be done, and how you can speed them up: Ford Motor OBD-II Driving Cycle | Car OBD Diagnostics, ECU Chip Tuning & Auto Repair Support

Idle RPMs are NOT learned, they are pre-set for the engine and year, and based on coolant temp
IAC Valve voltage to get the "target" RPMs are learned, so idle can wander a bit after clearing KAM as computer tries different voltages to IAC Valve
Same for EGR system

Computer has no concept of AC or manual or automatic and none of this is learned, its pre-set programming in the software
When computer gets a 12v AC Demand "signal" it will increase "target" idle RPMs by 75-100. what ever it was programmed for, if vehicle has no AC then it would never get the Demand signal, but the software is still there, just never used
Or if it gets an "in gear" signal it will do the same with automatic software in computer

Manuals have a "hold idle high" when clutch pedal is down(neutral), if speedometer is above 5MPH, usually holds at about 1,000rpm
Its an emission thing
4cyl engines have a higher target idle than V6/V8 because they only fire every 180deg of crank rotation so tend to vibrate a lot below 750-800rpm

 

Thanks Ron.
Are you sure there's no relearn procedure? If the KAM is cleared, the PCM has to have some sequence to re-establishing those parameters, doesn't it?
I've read that the PCM will establish new parameters over time, but supposedly there are "quick" learn procedures that take less time, with less erratic performance while the new specs are learned.
There seem to be a ton of relearn procedures available, I just haven't found one for my truck specifically. So after I replace a part, I should clear the KAM each time, as I do the replacement?
And the PCM will just learn over time, while I drive?
Just when I thought I was getting this whole clear/relearn thing, you threw me a curve ball. Now I'm right back to confusion lol.
Okay,
Since you've mentioned before that my O2 sensors should be replaced due to thigh mileage(over 175,000 miles) could I get some input on some O2 sensors?
This article https://www.electronicshub.org/best-oxygen-sensors/ suggests the following O2 sensors are best for Ford Rangers-
As usual I've had a hard time locating Motorcraft OEM sensors.
If the sensor listed above is a no go, what brand/sensor actually is the best aftermarket for a 2000 Ford Ranger 2.5L?
Is there a difference between the upstream and downstream sensors? Or are they interchangeable as the Amazon link suggests?
*I just want to note that I have no idea how legit that article/website is, it came up in a web search so I figured I'd post it.*