Problems keeping it running
#1
Problems keeping it running
Hello everyone. I am new to the forum and to a Ford ranger. I recurved a 94 ranger 2.3 that didn't idle very well and in need of some running. So I replaced coils. Plugs. Wires. Idle air control valve. Ignition control module. Ten sender and ECT. Because of codes. Finally got the idle fixed but now it will die while driving. As soon as you reset key it will fire back up. But if you don't reset key there is no fire to plugs. Still got code 118 for ECT going to check wires. Any ideas would be appreciated.
#2
Welcome to the forum
Just a heads up on the 1989 - 1994 2.3l spark system, there is NO spark on the intake side when cranking over the engine, only exhaust side spark plugs get spark
After engine starts(above 400RPM), the intake side coil and spark plugs start to work.
These years use an ICM, ignition control module, located on the front of lower intake, these were prone to fail, they can be tested at most auto parts stores
Check the wires on the iCM, they also tended to get brittle and frayed.
The ICM is autonomous it doesn't need the engine computer for start up, only after start up, then the engine computer is used for "vacuum advance" type spark timing changes
The only "sensor" that can cause a no start is the Crank Sensor, it connects directly to the ICM, and it could cause a stall while driving, but a long shot.
Dirty fuel filter can cause stalling, but no No Spark
Any time any engine doesn't start you should do a 50/50 test.....FIRST, its simple and easy
Spray gasoline or Ether(quick start) into the engine and crank it over
If it starts and dies then you have fuel problem
If it doesn't start then you have a spark problem
50/50
Checking for spark doesn't mean spark is at the right time
Checking for fuel pressure doesn't mean injectors are opening
50/50 test always
There are two relays in the engine fuse box, EEC(computer) Relay, and the FP Relay(fuel pump)
These BOTH reset after turning key off and on
If either "opens" while driving engine would stall
Just a heads up on the 1989 - 1994 2.3l spark system, there is NO spark on the intake side when cranking over the engine, only exhaust side spark plugs get spark
After engine starts(above 400RPM), the intake side coil and spark plugs start to work.
These years use an ICM, ignition control module, located on the front of lower intake, these were prone to fail, they can be tested at most auto parts stores
Check the wires on the iCM, they also tended to get brittle and frayed.
The ICM is autonomous it doesn't need the engine computer for start up, only after start up, then the engine computer is used for "vacuum advance" type spark timing changes
The only "sensor" that can cause a no start is the Crank Sensor, it connects directly to the ICM, and it could cause a stall while driving, but a long shot.
Dirty fuel filter can cause stalling, but no No Spark
Any time any engine doesn't start you should do a 50/50 test.....FIRST, its simple and easy
Spray gasoline or Ether(quick start) into the engine and crank it over
If it starts and dies then you have fuel problem
If it doesn't start then you have a spark problem
50/50
Checking for spark doesn't mean spark is at the right time
Checking for fuel pressure doesn't mean injectors are opening
50/50 test always
There are two relays in the engine fuse box, EEC(computer) Relay, and the FP Relay(fuel pump)
These BOTH reset after turning key off and on
If either "opens" while driving engine would stall
#3
Thanks for the info. Other than just dying while driving the truck runs great. When it dies just turn key off then it starts right back up no hesitation at all. Definitely gonna check the wires to the icm and to the relays. It did blow the eec relay once. Before I did all this work the only real problem was it didn't idle. Once i got idle problem fixed is when this dying while driving started. It's just annoying.
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