I made another post about this in another section of the forum, I apologize if either one is in the wrong forum.

My parking brake light goes on and off with the throttle while driving, I was wondering if this has been seen before and what the problem is. I just did a full brake job maybe a month ago and the brakes are working fine, so I think its a problem with the dash light/associated electronics.

My ABS light also stays on sometimes, and then stays off for long periods of time. I don't know if the abs work anymore, but the brakes are working fine as I said, so I was wondering if this is related to my parking brake light issue, since they started acting up together today.

Thanks

 

Don't know about the ABS light, but check you brake fluid level.
If it gets low, the park brake light will come on.

 

+1 ^^^
The Master has a fluid level sensor, check level and also unplug the sensor wire and clean contacts

Yes it will also cause ABS light to come on, along with dash brake light

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I feel quite dumb, I can't believe I had forgotten that there was a fluid level sensor

Well, as it turns out, I had lost almost the full reservoir of fluid before it came on. The good news is, it did not suck air in.

The bad news is that in looking for the leak, everything I repaired is a-ok, but the abs hydraulic unit is shot

It is leaking fluid BAD. I've looked up a replacement part, which is affordable, BUT I am being told that there is really no way to bleed the new unit at home, without really expensive tools, which are almost impossible to find for a 94..?

So... can anyone point me in the direction of writeups on how to delete/bypass the hydraulic unit, or can anyone tell me what needs to be done in order to do this? Is it as simple as coupling some lines together after removing the unit, and rebleeding everything?

I really cant afford to pay a shop to do the repair, I'd be out more than the truck is worth.

Thanks

 

Can't a simple vacuum pump work once the whole system is back together ?
Or there are adapters that use compressed air that screw onto the lid of the reservoir and force the fluid into the system.

You need a compressor for this though.

 

1994(and earlier) should have the bleeder screw on the ABS unit
1995 and up didn't and you needed to activate the unit and then suck fluid thru it to bleed it

1995 was the first year 4 wheel ABS was offered on Rangers

 

Hey guys,

Thanks for the tips.

So if my truck is an August 94, there should be a bleed screw?

Where is the bleed screw located? I didnt see anything that made sense as a bleed screw.

Heres a bad picture of my unit. You can see its leaking from that hex 'thing' above where the line is threaded in. Is that normal? Is that hex 'thing' the bleed screw?




Also I noticed when I was bleeding the brakes after some work to them a few weeks ago, I would bleed them over and over and over and never get to a point where tiny bubbles weren't still present. I must have went through a whole gallon of dot 3 doing it.

Could the leaky abs hydraulic unit explain that?

Thanks

 

Supposing I wanted to eliminate the hydraulic unit altogether, do you just remove the valve and couple the inlet and outlines together?

Thanks

 

Yes, you can by-pass rear ABS unit

No, I don't see a bleeder


And yes a leak in a brake line will suck some air in when you let off on the brake pedal
Air is easier to move than any fluid.
When you apply pressure to the brakes, fluid will run out of the leak point.
When you let up on the pedal some air will be pulled back in from same leak point because it is easier than pulling the fluid back from rear brake line

Brake lines have no pressure when foot is off the pedal but gravity will make any leak below Master cylinder's fluid level continue to leak a bit