94 ford ranger runs rough or not at all
#1
94 ford ranger runs rough or not at all
Normally I would do a lot more research myself but I have reached my breaking point since I am trying to fix this pickup as a blind person. I do have my daughter helping me out but she has limited knowledge of how to fix the issue. So I am here asking for any sort of help with this.
I have a 94 ford ranger 2.3 engine. One day it started running rough and then not at all. Daughter pointed out to me the battery had a ton of acid all over it. So I replaced the battery. That didn't fix the issue so I replaced the spark plugs and wires but that didn't fix it either. But out of the blue it did start no problem. I then decided to change the fuel filter just to be on the safe side thinking maybe that was the issue. I went to start it and it kept cranking. The next day I tried again it sounded like it was going to start but it didn't. I used some starting fluid and it finally kicked over but ran really rough. After about 5 minutes of running it ran ok but a little rough. My daught told me the check engine light is on so we ran the test with the jumper wire.
This is where I am stumped because I don't understand the code it is giving me. The first code i get makes sense as it is 543. But the next round of numbers is very confusing. After it does 2 rounds of 543 it then goes 1 blink then 1 again followed by 56543 followed by 1 blink then 56543. So can anybody explain why it would give that second round of codes like that?
Based off of what 543 means on the list (Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power), I am assuming that maybe it might be the fuel pump that's a problem. But if anybody has suggestions or the ideas on what the issue might be I am fully open to it.
Thanks for any help that anybody can provide.
I have a 94 ford ranger 2.3 engine. One day it started running rough and then not at all. Daughter pointed out to me the battery had a ton of acid all over it. So I replaced the battery. That didn't fix the issue so I replaced the spark plugs and wires but that didn't fix it either. But out of the blue it did start no problem. I then decided to change the fuel filter just to be on the safe side thinking maybe that was the issue. I went to start it and it kept cranking. The next day I tried again it sounded like it was going to start but it didn't. I used some starting fluid and it finally kicked over but ran really rough. After about 5 minutes of running it ran ok but a little rough. My daught told me the check engine light is on so we ran the test with the jumper wire.
This is where I am stumped because I don't understand the code it is giving me. The first code i get makes sense as it is 543. But the next round of numbers is very confusing. After it does 2 rounds of 543 it then goes 1 blink then 1 again followed by 56543 followed by 1 blink then 56543. So can anybody explain why it would give that second round of codes like that?
Based off of what 543 means on the list (Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power), I am assuming that maybe it might be the fuel pump that's a problem. But if anybody has suggestions or the ideas on what the issue might be I am fully open to it.
Thanks for any help that anybody can provide.
#2
Welcome to the forum
First thing that comes to mind with description is "bad gas" you got some gasoline with too much water in it
Water is heavier than gasoline and can not mix with gasoline so settles to the bottom of the tank
Fuel pump pulls fuel from the bottom of the tank............................
So one day she runs great, get some "gas" and then next day.............runs really really bad if it starts at all
543 Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
The computer turns on and off the Fuel Pump Relay
It has a Monitor wire connected to the fuel pumps 12v wire, under the dash
When computer turns on the fuel pump relay it expects to see 12volts on that monitor wire, if it doesn't then code 543
So this code could mean Fuel Pump fuse in engine bay fuse box is bad, or the Fuel pump Relay in same fuse box is bad
There would be no code for bad fuel pump, just no fuel at the engine
No explanation for the 56543, except it has 543, can't explain the 56
I would clear the codes and see what comes back
1989-1994 2.3l uses an ICM(ignition control module, spark system), known issue as they get older, no code for it
You have a Dual spark plug setup for better power, but this 2.3l engine ran on 4 spark plugs just fine from 1974 thru 1988
So do this test
Unplug the 3 wire connector on the Drivers side coil pack, 4 intake side spark plugs off line
Try to start
Should start and run if all 4 spark plugs on passenger side are working, if you have a steady miss then one of the spark plugs is not working, random misfires, then could be ICM
In a 1994 you should be able to do the same on the drivers side coil pack, i.e. unplug passenger side coil pack, plug in Drivers side coil pack
BUT............Ford did have a spark inhibitor circuit in the earlier versions,so only Passenger side coil pack would spark with starter motor turning the engine, this was to give max voltage to one coil pack for Cold Starts, but I think that was dropped in 1993 2.3l's
But if it won't start with passenger side coil pack unplugged, then plug it in and start engine with both coil packs working, then carefully!! unplug the 3 wire connector on passenger side coil pack without getting shocked, insulated pliers are good, lol
This test that all 4 spark plugs on drivers side are also working
Should do this test once a year, benefit with dual spark plugs is more power, but you can never tell when one spark plug is not working, power loss is not that much, only when BOTH spark plugs in the same cylinder start to have issues is when you feel it
Also the point of the test is to see if ICM is sparking all the spark plugs all the time, random misfires with only 1 coil pack working would point to ICM issue, steady misfire would be a spark plug or wire issue
First thing that comes to mind with description is "bad gas" you got some gasoline with too much water in it
Water is heavier than gasoline and can not mix with gasoline so settles to the bottom of the tank
Fuel pump pulls fuel from the bottom of the tank............................
So one day she runs great, get some "gas" and then next day.............runs really really bad if it starts at all
543 Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
The computer turns on and off the Fuel Pump Relay
It has a Monitor wire connected to the fuel pumps 12v wire, under the dash
When computer turns on the fuel pump relay it expects to see 12volts on that monitor wire, if it doesn't then code 543
So this code could mean Fuel Pump fuse in engine bay fuse box is bad, or the Fuel pump Relay in same fuse box is bad
There would be no code for bad fuel pump, just no fuel at the engine
No explanation for the 56543, except it has 543, can't explain the 56
I would clear the codes and see what comes back
1989-1994 2.3l uses an ICM(ignition control module, spark system), known issue as they get older, no code for it
You have a Dual spark plug setup for better power, but this 2.3l engine ran on 4 spark plugs just fine from 1974 thru 1988
So do this test
Unplug the 3 wire connector on the Drivers side coil pack, 4 intake side spark plugs off line
Try to start
Should start and run if all 4 spark plugs on passenger side are working, if you have a steady miss then one of the spark plugs is not working, random misfires, then could be ICM
In a 1994 you should be able to do the same on the drivers side coil pack, i.e. unplug passenger side coil pack, plug in Drivers side coil pack
BUT............Ford did have a spark inhibitor circuit in the earlier versions,so only Passenger side coil pack would spark with starter motor turning the engine, this was to give max voltage to one coil pack for Cold Starts, but I think that was dropped in 1993 2.3l's
But if it won't start with passenger side coil pack unplugged, then plug it in and start engine with both coil packs working, then carefully!! unplug the 3 wire connector on passenger side coil pack without getting shocked, insulated pliers are good, lol
This test that all 4 spark plugs on drivers side are also working
Should do this test once a year, benefit with dual spark plugs is more power, but you can never tell when one spark plug is not working, power loss is not that much, only when BOTH spark plugs in the same cylinder start to have issues is when you feel it
Also the point of the test is to see if ICM is sparking all the spark plugs all the time, random misfires with only 1 coil pack working would point to ICM issue, steady misfire would be a spark plug or wire issue
Last edited by RonD; 09-20-2022 at 05:39 PM.
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