2.3L WILL NOT RUN AFTER NEW HEAD INSTALL
#1
2.3L WILL NOT RUN AFTER NEW HEAD INSTALL
HEY EVERYONE,
I HAVE A 1999 FORD RANGER 4X2 WITH A 2.3L ENGINE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN MY SHOP. ONE OF MY TECHS REPLACED THE CYLINDER HEAD BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS RUN HOT AND IT CRACKED THE HEAD. HE REPLACED THE HEAD WITH A NEW HEAD GASKET. I CHECKED THE TIMING PERSONALLY AND THE MARKS ON THE CRANK, CAM, AND OIL PUMP ARE ALL LINED UP PER MITCHELL'S TIMING DIAGRAM. I HAVE ALSO CHECKED THE PLUG WIRE SCHEMATIC FROM MITCHELL AND ALL 8 PLUG WIRES ARE CONNECTED TO THE PROPER CYLINDER. HE INSTALLED NEW PLUGS AND WIRES SO I KNOW THEY ARE GOOD. INSTALLED NEW IAC VALVE, TIMING BELT, TENSIONER, WATER PUMP, THERMOSTAT HOUSING, VALVE COVER GASKET, AND THE USUAL GASKETS AND SEALS THAT COME WITH THE CYLINDER HEAD KIT. CHECKED THE FUEL PRESSURE AND IT HAS BETWEEN 60 TO 65 PSI. COMPRESSION IS GOOD, SPARK IS GOOD. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND PIGTAIL WAS REPLACED BECAUSE IT HAD A CAM SENSOR FAULT CODE AND THE WIRES WERE BARE.
WITH THAT BEING SAID... THE ONLY WAY THAT THE ENGINE WILL HALF STAY RUNNING IS TO HOLD THE GAS PEDAL ON THE FLOOR PUTTING IT IN FLOOD CLEAR OUT MODE. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHY IT WOULD BE ACTING THIS WAY? ANY HELP OR ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
I HAVE A 1999 FORD RANGER 4X2 WITH A 2.3L ENGINE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN MY SHOP. ONE OF MY TECHS REPLACED THE CYLINDER HEAD BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS RUN HOT AND IT CRACKED THE HEAD. HE REPLACED THE HEAD WITH A NEW HEAD GASKET. I CHECKED THE TIMING PERSONALLY AND THE MARKS ON THE CRANK, CAM, AND OIL PUMP ARE ALL LINED UP PER MITCHELL'S TIMING DIAGRAM. I HAVE ALSO CHECKED THE PLUG WIRE SCHEMATIC FROM MITCHELL AND ALL 8 PLUG WIRES ARE CONNECTED TO THE PROPER CYLINDER. HE INSTALLED NEW PLUGS AND WIRES SO I KNOW THEY ARE GOOD. INSTALLED NEW IAC VALVE, TIMING BELT, TENSIONER, WATER PUMP, THERMOSTAT HOUSING, VALVE COVER GASKET, AND THE USUAL GASKETS AND SEALS THAT COME WITH THE CYLINDER HEAD KIT. CHECKED THE FUEL PRESSURE AND IT HAS BETWEEN 60 TO 65 PSI. COMPRESSION IS GOOD, SPARK IS GOOD. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND PIGTAIL WAS REPLACED BECAUSE IT HAD A CAM SENSOR FAULT CODE AND THE WIRES WERE BARE.
WITH THAT BEING SAID... THE ONLY WAY THAT THE ENGINE WILL HALF STAY RUNNING IS TO HOLD THE GAS PEDAL ON THE FLOOR PUTTING IT IN FLOOD CLEAR OUT MODE. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHY IT WOULD BE ACTING THIS WAY? ANY HELP OR ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
#2
Welcome to the forum
Turn CAPS off, makes it hard to read
Must be a 2.5l SOHC engine, 2.3l SOHC was last used in 1997 Ranger, 2.5l was used 1998-2001 in Rangers, but not important to your crank but no start, its the same engine just has a longer stroke
If possible pull any spark plug thats easy to get at and test compression, expected is 165-175psi that would confirm timing belt and marks were installed correctly, if under 130psi then thats most likely the issue
Try 50/50 test
Spray Quick Start into the intake and crank engine
If it starts then spark is working and timed correctly, its a fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't start then spark is not timed correctly, or compression is to low
The dual spark plug engines can run just fine on one coil pack and 4 spark plugs, they did from 1974 to 1988
The spark plugs are grouped in pairs, 1/4 and 2/3 on each coil pack
Fuel injectors all get 12volts with key on
The PCM(computer) grounds each injector to open it
So if an injector wire is shorted to ground it would open with key on flooding the engine
But it also would not hold fuel pressure, it would drop to 0psi after a few seconds
How long did vehicle sit before the repair, is the gasoline in the tank OK?
Turn CAPS off, makes it hard to read
Must be a 2.5l SOHC engine, 2.3l SOHC was last used in 1997 Ranger, 2.5l was used 1998-2001 in Rangers, but not important to your crank but no start, its the same engine just has a longer stroke
If possible pull any spark plug thats easy to get at and test compression, expected is 165-175psi that would confirm timing belt and marks were installed correctly, if under 130psi then thats most likely the issue
Try 50/50 test
Spray Quick Start into the intake and crank engine
If it starts then spark is working and timed correctly, its a fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't start then spark is not timed correctly, or compression is to low
The dual spark plug engines can run just fine on one coil pack and 4 spark plugs, they did from 1974 to 1988
The spark plugs are grouped in pairs, 1/4 and 2/3 on each coil pack
Fuel injectors all get 12volts with key on
The PCM(computer) grounds each injector to open it
So if an injector wire is shorted to ground it would open with key on flooding the engine
But it also would not hold fuel pressure, it would drop to 0psi after a few seconds
How long did vehicle sit before the repair, is the gasoline in the tank OK?
The following users liked this post:
ColeUssery (02-11-2021)
#3
Thanks for replying Ron,
It is a 2.5L. I don't know why my auto correct changes it to 2.3L.
the vehicle had been sitting a month or 2 before coming to the shop.
This is the timing diagram provided by Mitchell that he used to time the engine with.
Last edited by CADES29518; 01-20-2021 at 11:24 AM. Reason: more info
#4
Yes, those are correct marks to use from 1974 to 2001
So check compression
In my opinion Ford goofed up in using a triangle and a diamond as timing marks AND using the same marks on BOTH cam and aux gears
Because a diamond becomes a triangle if part of it is rubbed off......................lol
So test compression to take that off the table for sure
Compression is a mechanical function so is either good or bad, so once off the table you can look at the electrics which can be come and go issues
The 50/50 test tells you if crank sensor and computer are working, both are needed for timed spark
You can also look at the CEL(check engine light) it will be on with key on and then go OFF when cranking engine over, this also means computer is "seeing" the timing from Crank Sensor
If CEL stays on then there is no timing pulse so no start
So check compression
In my opinion Ford goofed up in using a triangle and a diamond as timing marks AND using the same marks on BOTH cam and aux gears
Because a diamond becomes a triangle if part of it is rubbed off......................lol
So test compression to take that off the table for sure
Compression is a mechanical function so is either good or bad, so once off the table you can look at the electrics which can be come and go issues
The 50/50 test tells you if crank sensor and computer are working, both are needed for timed spark
You can also look at the CEL(check engine light) it will be on with key on and then go OFF when cranking engine over, this also means computer is "seeing" the timing from Crank Sensor
If CEL stays on then there is no timing pulse so no start
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bobinashoe
2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech
9
12-05-2017 09:17 PM