1997 Ranger 2.3L Exhaust leak
#1
1997 Ranger 2.3L Exhaust leak
Hi everyone. New to posting but ive come here for a long time for advise. However ive reached a snag considering the age of my ranger.
Its a '97 2.3L Ranger and it has an exhaust leak. The pipe connection between the manifold and the cat. Ive been looking online to try and find the proper parts but I cannot so here I am. I was wondering the size of the bolts needed and if they need to be a spring set or not and if I need either a donut gasket or a ring gasket. As far as I know the mounting points are still in OK shape but I haven't had time to inspect them more closely yet. I think Im going to get to that this weekend. But I think all I need to do is reseal that connection between the manifold and the cat and I should be good...I just dont see any part references online and so I was hoping one of yall would know. Im also aware of the basically exact part swap for the Mazda B2300 model but I also havnt had much luck on finding repair guides for it.
So far my assumptions are this:
a flange donut gasket
and a pair of m10-1.5x 76mm spring bolts(tho Ive heard they may be too long Im not sure)
if my mounting points are to the point of no return I would need Im guessing a whole new exhaust manifold and cat assembly?
Thank you very much yall on the advise given here its helped me a great deal on my DIY repairs of my vehicles!!
Its a '97 2.3L Ranger and it has an exhaust leak. The pipe connection between the manifold and the cat. Ive been looking online to try and find the proper parts but I cannot so here I am. I was wondering the size of the bolts needed and if they need to be a spring set or not and if I need either a donut gasket or a ring gasket. As far as I know the mounting points are still in OK shape but I haven't had time to inspect them more closely yet. I think Im going to get to that this weekend. But I think all I need to do is reseal that connection between the manifold and the cat and I should be good...I just dont see any part references online and so I was hoping one of yall would know. Im also aware of the basically exact part swap for the Mazda B2300 model but I also havnt had much luck on finding repair guides for it.
So far my assumptions are this:
a flange donut gasket
and a pair of m10-1.5x 76mm spring bolts(tho Ive heard they may be too long Im not sure)
if my mounting points are to the point of no return I would need Im guessing a whole new exhaust manifold and cat assembly?
Thank you very much yall on the advise given here its helped me a great deal on my DIY repairs of my vehicles!!
#3
I have a 3 liter, but when I go here and click on the pictures in the link(s), it shows a donut, probably further down though.
The cat just appears to have a flair and flange of the manifold.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...converter,5808
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...stem+kit,10727
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/.../+spring,10741
The cat just appears to have a flair and flange of the manifold.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...converter,5808
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...stem+kit,10727
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/.../+spring,10741
#4
Hmm this sorta helps. But my exhaust leak doesnt take place near the cat. Its the bolt connection directly after the exhaust manifold. The connection that leads to the cat. Not the connection into the cat. Sorry if this sounds a bit confusing...
It goes like this:
Exhaust manifold-> broken connection-> pipe leading to cat
The exhaust leak is directly seen from the engine bay. Its immediately after the exhaust manifold. The connection that attaches the exhaust manifold to the down pipe leading to the cat.
It goes like this:
Exhaust manifold-> broken connection-> pipe leading to cat
The exhaust leak is directly seen from the engine bay. Its immediately after the exhaust manifold. The connection that attaches the exhaust manifold to the down pipe leading to the cat.
#5
That joint on my 3 litre is just a flange flare that bolts hard up to the cast iron manifold with two bolts, there's no donut involved or springs, the bolts go directly into the casting.
Can't tell you want size the bolts are though, not off the top of my head.
If it is a flared flange like I think it is, it may be need reseating, the casting may be worn away or cracked and or the flange has been compromised if one of the bolts has rotted away allowing the hot exhaust gases to corrode the steel.
When I rebuilt my engine, I did manage to work the bolts loose with WD40 and lots of patience, but I had my oxy/acetylene touch ready though.
They were those weird Ford 12 pointed head type bolts, probably 8 or 10 mm with a pitch of 1.0, or 1.5.
Can't tell you want size the bolts are though, not off the top of my head.
If it is a flared flange like I think it is, it may be need reseating, the casting may be worn away or cracked and or the flange has been compromised if one of the bolts has rotted away allowing the hot exhaust gases to corrode the steel.
When I rebuilt my engine, I did manage to work the bolts loose with WD40 and lots of patience, but I had my oxy/acetylene touch ready though.
They were those weird Ford 12 pointed head type bolts, probably 8 or 10 mm with a pitch of 1.0, or 1.5.
#6
Over my many years of vehicle work I have found that exhaust system work is not worth the time you will spend on it
The bolts and nuts are rusty and almost always welded into place, lol
I have found an independent exhaust shop is the best course of action for these types of repairs
They have all the tools and taps plus replacement gaskets, bolts and nuts as needed, and they do this work every day, so know all the tricks
A cash offer, can go a long way for this type of repair, it reads like just labor and maybe a bolt or two
And yes there is no donut gasket on these but if the pipe has been eaten away a shop can add a donut or sleeve to fix it versus a new pipe
Don't get me wrong, I am a DIYer for all things on a vehicle, its just that over the years I have realized that most exhaust work is frustrating and time consuming
The bolts and nuts are rusty and almost always welded into place, lol
I have found an independent exhaust shop is the best course of action for these types of repairs
They have all the tools and taps plus replacement gaskets, bolts and nuts as needed, and they do this work every day, so know all the tricks
A cash offer, can go a long way for this type of repair, it reads like just labor and maybe a bolt or two
And yes there is no donut gasket on these but if the pipe has been eaten away a shop can add a donut or sleeve to fix it versus a new pipe
Don't get me wrong, I am a DIYer for all things on a vehicle, its just that over the years I have realized that most exhaust work is frustrating and time consuming
#7
thanks yall! this is what I needed. I didnt want to buy a donut if I didnt need too..money is tight right now. Now to see what size/length bolts I need..tho I will probably have to experiment with that...and I really hope they arnt welded in place..That would be a bummer. I dont think so tho....One bolt is missing from it already so Im hoping with a lil elbow grease I can pop that other one out as long as the metal isn't corroded enough to merit a whole new pipe replacement.
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DavidStirrup
General Ford Ranger Discussion
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06-12-2015 01:17 PM