1995 B2300 2wd Manual Engine Removal Help
#1
1995 B2300 2wd Manual Engine Removal Help
I have a 1995 Mazda b2300 2wd manual that I bought a new engine for. I’ve never swapped an engine on any vehicle before any tips or recommendations are greatly appreciated. I’ve done some some research already but if there’s any information that anyone who reads this would like to input to make this a little easier on me would help out a lot.
Thank you in Advance!
Thank you in Advance!
#2
Take lots of pictures before and during disassembly
Before you unplug that wire, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark it with a number, take a picture.
Before you unplug that vacuum line, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark it with a number, take a picture.
Before you remove that part, take a picture.
Before you unplug that wire, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark it with a number, take a picture.
Before you unplug that vacuum line, put a piece of masking tape on it and mark it with a number, take a picture.
Before you remove that part, take a picture.
#3
#6
Make sure the trans and engine are well supported when you separate them so the input shaft of the transmission doesn't get bent.
Once you have the engine out, consider replacing the slave clutch cylinder since it's now accessible, be sure and use a Ford Motor Craft slave cylinder, the aftermarket ones seem to fail with in a year.
Unbolt as much stuff as necessary from the top of the engine to gain access to the bell housing bolts.
Personally I've always found it easier to install an engine with out the head(s) in place, that also gives a spot for the engine jack to bolt too.
Don't damage the block surface when bolting the chain or cable when attaching the engine jack.
Having the head out of the way makes it easier to bolt the trans back into place.
Remember to lube the needle bearing at the end of the crankshaft before assembly, I use a clear silicon synthetic grease, but I suppose you could use anything.
This being your first, I'm sure you'll have lots of questions, Ron, myself and others will be here to help.
Take you time and check your work so you remember things as you go along, there's nothing more frustrating doubting yourself wondering if you forget something.
Once you have the engine out, consider replacing the slave clutch cylinder since it's now accessible, be sure and use a Ford Motor Craft slave cylinder, the aftermarket ones seem to fail with in a year.
Unbolt as much stuff as necessary from the top of the engine to gain access to the bell housing bolts.
Personally I've always found it easier to install an engine with out the head(s) in place, that also gives a spot for the engine jack to bolt too.
Don't damage the block surface when bolting the chain or cable when attaching the engine jack.
Having the head out of the way makes it easier to bolt the trans back into place.
Remember to lube the needle bearing at the end of the crankshaft before assembly, I use a clear silicon synthetic grease, but I suppose you could use anything.
This being your first, I'm sure you'll have lots of questions, Ron, myself and others will be here to help.
Take you time and check your work so you remember things as you go along, there's nothing more frustrating doubting yourself wondering if you forget something.
#7
#8
Engine removal
What’s up guys , it’s my first time removing the engine of my 1995 ranger 2.3 manual , and I’ve loosened all the bolts on the transmission including the engine mounts . I tried to take the engine out but still seems to be connected to the transmission. Is there any bolts I need to loosen from the clutch ? I’m willing to take any advice thanks in advance
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