Tips on installing my new body lift?
#1
Tips on installing my new body lift?
Hey all, I just ordered a 3 inch PA body lift from Summit and was wondering if there is anything I could do when installing it to make it easier and a more efficient install. I've done one before on my old 96 Jimmy and it took me 5 days on and off and the rust i encountered caused me to break bolts. I just figured I would let the body mount bolts soak for a day in liquid wrench and then hope for the best when I installed.
Did anyone have to replace the body mount bushings?
Did anyone have to replace the body mount bushings?
#2
This: Ford Ranger Body Lift 3” – Tech Info Extravaganza
I suggest taking a wire wheel on a grinder to the ground extensions, radiator upper and lower drops, bed supports, and front bumper brackets. Then spray them with quality paint prior to doing your lift. I use John Deere Blitz Black in a rattle can. If you paint on top of the zinc coating, the paint tends to not stick. The end result is a FAR cleaner install.
You shouldn't have to even consider replacing cab bushings unless they are beyond usable. I don't recall anyone needing to....except for those that want to mod a truck with rusted out cab mounts on the frame.
MAPP gas until the bushing just start to smoke, then attack the bolt with an air impact gun.
Pretty much everything else you'd need info wise can be found in the sticky thread at the very top of the section you posted this thread in. See also: first sentence in this reply.
I suggest taking a wire wheel on a grinder to the ground extensions, radiator upper and lower drops, bed supports, and front bumper brackets. Then spray them with quality paint prior to doing your lift. I use John Deere Blitz Black in a rattle can. If you paint on top of the zinc coating, the paint tends to not stick. The end result is a FAR cleaner install.
You shouldn't have to even consider replacing cab bushings unless they are beyond usable. I don't recall anyone needing to....except for those that want to mod a truck with rusted out cab mounts on the frame.
MAPP gas until the bushing just start to smoke, then attack the bolt with an air impact gun.
Pretty much everything else you'd need info wise can be found in the sticky thread at the very top of the section you posted this thread in. See also: first sentence in this reply.
Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 05-15-2012 at 01:44 AM.
#3
best thing to do is follow the instructions step by step. Don't skip over anything and put a checkmark next to each step to make sure you didn't forget anything. The "preparation" is what takes the longest imo. all the little tedious things to disconnect suck but it will ensure a smooth instal. I did my body lift by myself in 11 hours. Its not bad
#4
#8
#9
Get familiar with the instructions. I did before I got to wrenching. You just ordered your kit so I assume you don't have them right now. You can download them from the linked thread I posted. Or you can download from PA for Summit.
#10
I just got the lift today and I started looking through the instructions. Most of it seems similar to the one I did before but I was wondering about the bed crush blocks. What's the deal with these? are they necessary? The picture doesn't really show how they are put in so it is confusing and I looked at the Ford Ranger Body Lift 3” – Tech Info Extravaganza thread and it doesn't really say where exactly they go.
Last edited by Wingman108; 05-18-2012 at 01:13 AM.
#11
I just got the lift today and I started looking through the instructions. Most of it seems similar to the one I did before but I was wondering about the bed crush blocks. What's the deal with these? are they necessary? The picture doesn't really show how they are put in so it is confusing and I looked at the Ford Ranger Body Lift 3” – Tech Info Extravaganza thread and it doesn't really say where exactly they go.
just went out and snapped a pic. you can see 3 of the 4 here
#12
Welding them isn't required, even though the instructions say so. You can just place them where they need to go and tighten the bed bolts. They'll stay in place by the clamping force of the body and frame.
I actually don't even run them....and I've made scrap runs of 1200lb in the bed with no bed floor bowing. But it is wise to run them.
I actually don't even run them....and I've made scrap runs of 1200lb in the bed with no bed floor bowing. But it is wise to run them.
#15
they're used to support the center part of the bed when there is a load in it. I welded mine on so they're not going anywhere. I put ATV's, mulch, loam, motorcycles, etc in the back so I used them on both trucks.
just went out and snapped a pic. you can see 3 of the 4 here
just went out and snapped a pic. you can see 3 of the 4 here
#18
All kits before yours I've seen have 14. 6 for the cab + 6 for the bed + 2 for longbed. Generally folks have 2 extra blocks, bolts, and washers.
09+ Shortbeds have 10 mounting points. That would explain the 16 in your kit?
#19
I'm looking at the weather for this week and It says Mon and Tuesday are the only two clear days and the rest they are predicting rain...I hate not having a garage! I'm so ready to put this lift on.
#20
Maybe It's giving me blocks for the long bed and the extra two? I dunno. It is definitely the right kit because it has the right directions in it. I have an 02 so I would only need 12 right?
I'm looking at the weather for this week and It says Mon and Tuesday are the only two clear days and the rest they are predicting rain...I hate not having a garage! I'm so ready to put this lift on.
I'm looking at the weather for this week and It says Mon and Tuesday are the only two clear days and the rest they are predicting rain...I hate not having a garage! I'm so ready to put this lift on.
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